Amritsar, India

​ I have seen all else, but nothing as beautiful as you...

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Summary

Airport Rating    *****
Reception of locals *****
Cost: ££

• No issues with airport security 
• Expect a lot of street kids to approach you if they realise you are from another country
• A very friendly city that mixes modernity and history well (although that is changing)
• It's becoming more expensive
• Main sights: Harimander Sahib, Taran Tarn Sahib, Saragarhi memorial, Jallianwala Bagh

​My recent trip to Panjab was my first since I was much younger, and my first as an adult. My mom had moved over to England in 1985 as a 19 year old, against the backdrop of unrest in Panjab. Operation Bluestar had begun a decade of fighting in the state, with the police using heavy handed tactics against anyone they felt was a threat (all Singh's).

My mom recounts one story as a young girl during the martial law period building up to the events of 1984 where she was caught in the crossfire of a gun battle between a local police force and some Singh's. Hearing the bullets getting closer and no means of escape she decided to hide, only for a large Singh to run over, pick her up and move her out of harms way. Not coming from a particularly religious family, this is the event where she first felt she wanted to raise any future kids as Singh's.

With those events in her mind, she had always made me a little weary about going to see Panjab, always telling me to be particularly careful about the police. However, there comes a time when the curiosity becomes too strong, so I decided to go and visit for myself.

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