Subotica, Serbia

Summary

Airport Rating n/a
Reception of locals ***
Cost: £££

• Central European style city in the north of Serbia, inspired by architecture of the Austro-Hungarian Empire
• Reasonably priced both to fly there and stay there but not a huge amount of large famous hotels
• Definitely some strong looks from the locals, but generally safe and ok
• Main Sights: Subotica Synagogue, Franciscan Church, City Hall, Lake Palic, Zvonko Bogdan

Where Central Europe meets the Balkans

A few years ago, weeks before the lockdowns of the pandemic happened, I had a trip to Serbia that took me from Belgrade into mountainous territory of the south. Five years later, and I was back in Belgrade, but taking a trip in the opposite direction to the north of the country.

This trip happened because a friend I met way back when at university had fallen in love with a Serbian woman and was getting married. What married this marriage interesting is that he is a black British man of South African decent, while she is very much a white Serbian woman, of Slavic decent. When I was here last time, I wrote that not all the stares and looks you get in the country are racist, some are just inquisitive, and this wedding was proof of that.

The flight in from Birmingham was fairly straightforward, with a short stop in Munich, and I had no issues at Belgrade airport (although a South Sudanese friend of mine did get held up for a little while). Belgrade to Subotica is a straight highway, and the journey takes about two and a half hours.

Subotica is a city in northern Serbia, located in the autonomous province of Vojvodina. It lies only a handful of miles from the Hungarian border, which has shaped much of its history and identity. Today, it serves as the administrative centre of the North Backa District. Its position has always made it a strategic crossroads between Central and Southeastern Europe, and this is reflected in both its culture and economy. 

The first written mention of Subotica dates to 1391, when it appeared under the name Zabotka. Throughout the centuries, control over the city changed hands many times, passing from the Kingdom of Hungary to the Ottomans, then to the Habsburg Monarchy and Austria-Hungary, later becoming part of Yugoslavia, and today belonging to Serbia. Each of these periods left its mark, not only in terms of architecture and administration but also in terms of population composition and cultural influence. In the Habsburg period, particularly from the mid-nineteenth century, Subotica developed rapidly thanks to the arrival of the railway, the growth of trade, and the introduction of electricity, which helped foster its reputation as one of the more prosperous towns in the region.

Over the centuries, its population has included Hungarians, Serbs, Croats, Bunjevci, Germans, and Roma (there are still a lot of Hungarians in the city today). This mix is also reflected in religion, with Catholic and Orthodox communities coexisting for centuries, and in language, where Hungarian is widely spoken alongside Serbian. 

By British standards, Subotica is a relatively small city. It's population (combined with nearby Palic, is only around 100,000. This still makes it the fifth largest city in Serbia by population and the second largest in Vojvodina after Novi Sad. What sets it apart, however, is the amazing architecture dotted around the city.

Subotica Synagogue

And when we think about amazing architecture, nothing comes close to Subotica Synagogue. I'll be honest, I've never been to a synagogue before, didn't know it was possible, and it never really crossed my mind. 

​The Subotica Synagogue is in the centre of the city and is a throwback to a time in the early 20th century when the Jewish population of northern Serbia was significant. The synagogue was built in 1901–1902 during a period when Subotica was part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. The city was then experiencing a cultural and economic boom, and the Jewish community was both prosperous and influential. The building is one of the largest surviving synagogues in Europe from that time, and among the few remaining Art Nouveau synagogues worldwide.

From the outside, the synagogue is both large and impressive. The main dome rises prominently, surrounded by smaller domes and turrets. There are colourful tiles that mix with brickwork, and the whole complex is pretty incredible to see.

Inside, I had to pay a nominal fee (about a pound) to enter the main building. The inside of the synagogue is extraordinary and now less opulent than some of the best designed Italian or French churches and cathedrals. There are painted floral motifs, elaborate stained glass windows, and wooden elements that echo traditional Hungarian folk art. The main hall could originally accommodate around 1,000 worshippers which shows just how big the Jewish population was in Subotica around this time.

During the Second World War, the Jewish population of Subotica was impacted in a big way. Many left the city never to return, and after the war, the community never recovered its former numbers, and the synagogue gradually fell into disuse. For decades, it stood largely empty, deteriorating as resources for its upkeep dwindled. By the late twentieth century, it was in a state of near ruin, although locals still loved its architecture.

Recognising its importance as a cultural and architectural monument, efforts were made to restore the synagogue. In 2018, after years of work and cooperation between Serbian, Hungarian, and international organisations, the restoration was completed. The project returned the synagogue to its original state, and while it no longer serves as a full-time place of worship due to the small size of the local Jewish community, it has taken on a new role as a cultural landmark. 

I spent quite a while walking through the main hall, then the first-floor balconies. Given that it was my first time at a synagogue, it was interesting to see the differences in the main room from the mosques / masjids, and churches / cathedrals that I have been to. Of course, there are some big differences but also striking similarities which isn't surprising given the connection all three religions have in their Abrahamic beliefs. While those beliefs are significantly different to mine, it is always nice to see, feel, and experience another way of understanding existence.

The Franciscan Church

Nearby is the Franciscan Church which is one of the oldest and most historically significant religious buildings in the city. The origins of the church go back to the fifteenth century, with the first Franciscan friars arriving in Subotica around 1390. The original structure is believed to have been completed in the early 1400s, making it the oldest surviving religious building in the city.

Unsurprisingly, the building has undergone many changes across the centuries. The original Gothic elements of the medieval church were altered significantly after the destruction and rebuilding caused by wars and occupations. During the Ottoman period in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, the church fell into ruin, but was rebuilt after the Habsburg reconquest in the late seventeenth century, with further additions and modifications in the baroque style during the eighteenth century. The result is a structure that today bears the marks of multiple eras, combining medieval foundations with later baroque influences, making it architecturally eclectic but historically layered.

Inside the church is comparatively simple, although there are frescoes, woodwork, and other details. Unlike the synagogue, the Franciscan Church is still an active religious building and so it's not so easy to get inside (Abrahamic faiths can be a little more closed off sometimes to people that are not considered within the group, but that's their business). At night, the church is beautifully lit up and its silhouette against the Subotica skyline looks beautiful.

City Hall (and the classy McDonalds)

The church towers are tall, but not as tall as nearby City Hall which is not only the most recognisable building in the city but also one of the finest examples of Hungarian Secessionist architecture in the whole of Central Europe. Constructed between 1908 and 1912, during the height of Subotica’s prosperity under Austria-Hungary, it was designed by the same Hungarian architects that designed the nearby Synagogue. 

The building is huge, dominating the central square of Subotica. At 76 metres, its tower is visible from far beyond the city centre. Inside, there are more than 200 rooms, including the ceremonial hall, offices, and council chambers, making it one of the largest city halls in the region. 

The City Hall has always functioned as administrative centre of Subotica. Throughout the political changes of the twentieth century, from Austria-Hungary to the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes, later Yugoslavia, and then modern Serbia, the building has remained the centre of municipal governance. Today, it continues to house the mayor’s office and local government. You can also climb the towers and get a view of the square below but I did not get the opportunity.

A pretty cool thing about the City Hall is the McDonalds that sits on the ground floor. As part of the same building, the McDonalds looks like the most upper-class super posh McDonalds that you will ever see. Even inside, there are opulent green tiles, classy writing and the whole thing feels a bit surreal. I never thought I'd type this sentence but... if you're in Subotica, make sure you visit McDonalds. 

Just in front of the City Hall is the blue fountain, while beside it is a more traditional style fountain, near the very large National Theatre. Opposite the building is a small tower dedicated to the Christian Trinity. During my few days in the city, this area seemed to be the heartbeat of the city. There were pop up markets during the day, music and performances (and even a large stage) during the night, and every street seemed to radiate from City Hall. Some of those streets were gorgeous, one was lined by nice restaurants and the gorgeous Raichle Palace which I ate outside of but didn't get a chance to visit (one for next time). I had fun spending a lot of time walking around the inner-city core. Parts of the city are very much run down, with some of the most in your face graffiti I have seen anywhere, but the main centre and some of the buildings that I have mentioned are stunning.

Lake Palic

The man-made architecture of Subotica is beautiful, but what really makes this city stand out is ​Lake Palic, which is part of the neighbouring city of Palic a few miles east of the city (a short 10 min taxi ride). 

The lake is the largest in Serbia and like many lakes around the world, has its own background story. Local folklore claims that the lake was formed when a shepherd cried so many tears over the loss of his flock that the hollow filled with water. The saltiness of the water was explained as the tears themselves. In reality, the lake is a remnant of the ancient Pannonian Sea, which once covered much of Central Europe millions of years ago. This explains why the water was historically saline, a feature that led to the establishment of a spa culture around the lake in the nineteenth century. The therapeutic properties of its mud and water were believed to have healing effects, and visitors began arriving for health treatments as early as the mid-1800s.

By the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, Lake Palic developed into one of the most fashionable resorts in the region, particularly under Austria-Hungary. With Subotica growing rapidly at the time, the city’s elites and visitors from further afield saw Palic as an ideal escape from the polluted urban life. Villas, promenades, and leisure facilities were built along its shores, many of them in the Hungarian Secessionist style that also defined Subotica’s synagogue and city hall.

Today the area is sustained by tourism, and it leans heavily into its spa-history. I visited during the day and the evening, and sunset at the lake was nature at its finest. There are little bars and restaurants that surround the lake, and people seemed generally nice. There are more hotels around here to cater for tourists, but even then, it never felt overcrowded and I was there during the middle of summer. 

Zvonko Bogdan

Now at the start of this article, I mentioned I had visited for a friend's wedding, so I should give a little shout out the location too. As you know, I don't like advertising pubs / clubs on here because of the issues it causes our community. I have no problem if people go, I used to go and I even worked in a club, but I don't want to shove it in people's places. But the Zvonko Bogdan winery is a tourist attraction in itself. It's a little like a country estate, surrounded by vines, with a main building that produces the wine. It was a beautiful setting, and no one is going to shove glasses of wine down your throat if you go - well worth the visit.

Would I recommend visiting Subotica?

If you're in the neighbourhood (Hungary, Serbia) and you have a couple days spare, Subotica is well worth the visit. It has a mix of cultures from the two countries shown in the people, food and architecture. Yes, you will likely get stares if you're a turban wearing Sikh, and yep not all of those are going to be nice. But for me, that's as far as it went. I didn't have any issues, and the people that did interact with me were very pleasant.

​Thumbs up for Subotica.