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A German French City I've visited France several times, but most of my trips are to the north and the west, only once have I visited the east of the country and that was my recent visit to the beautiful town of Colmar (which you can read about here). Strasbourg is the most German of French cities, and that's because for the majority of its history the city was a Germanic one. It's also home to some of Europe's most important institutions, and that's not surprising either because for hundreds of years it was the middle ground between Latin and German Europe. The origins of Strasbourg lie in the Roman settlement of Argentoratum, established in the first century BCE as a military outpost guarding the Rhine frontier of the Roman Empire. After the decline of Roman authority, the city passed through the hands of various Germanic kingdoms before becoming part of the Holy Roman Empire. During the medieval period, Strasbourg developed into a free imperial city, gaining a significant degree of political autonomy. Its position on major trade routes helped it prosper economically, while its cathedral, begun in the twelfth century, became both a religious centre and a symbol of civic pride. During this time, it was a key city of the Germanic people. In the sixteenth century, Strasbourg became a centre of Protestant though and adopted Protestantism officially for a period. This religious orientation distinguished it from much of France and reinforced its ties to German-speaking Europe. However, in 1681, Strasbourg was annexed by France under Louis XIV, but despite French control, the city retained many of its local customs, legal traditions, and German linguistic influences. Strasbourg’s status changed again following the Franco-Prussian War of 1870–71, when it was reconquered by the new German Empire. During this period, the city underwent significant urban development, including the construction of the Neustadt district, which expanded Strasbourg beyond its medieval core and reflected German imperial architectural styles. After the First World War, Strasbourg returned to France under the Treaty of Versailles in 1919. The city’s identity remained complex, shaped by decades of alternating French and German rule. The Second World War brought further upheaval. Strasbourg returned again to Germany, this time under Nazi rule but in 1944, the city was again given to France. In the post-war period, Strasbourg took on a new and symbolic role in European politics. Its location and history made it a deliberate choice as a centre for European reconciliation and cooperation. Today, Strasbourg is best known internationally as a major seat of European institutions. It hosts the European Parliament, which holds its plenary sessions in the city, as well as the Council of Europe and the European Court of Human Rights. This institutional presence has earned Strasbourg the reputation of being one of the de facto capitals of the European Union. Strasbourg is also the capital of the Grand Est region and the Alsace European Collectivity, reflecting recent administrative reforms in France. The city has a population of around 290,000, with a larger metropolitan area exceeding half a million residents which is around the size of Leicester, although that's probably where the comparisons end. It's an important economic centre, with strengths in services, education, life sciences, and cross-border trade. Its proximity to Germany allows for a high level of daily commuting and economic integration with cities such as Kehl and Karlsruhe. The city’s historic centre, the Grande Île, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, recognised for its well-preserved medieval urban fabric La Petite France And what a beautiful old town it is! It's insane that a city the size of Strasbourg that has been a battle ground for millennia has managed to preserve so much of its architecture. La Petite France is the historic district located on the western edge of Strasbourg’s Grande Île, the central island formed by the River Ill and its canals. The area developed outside the original Roman and early medieval core of Strasbourg. From the Middle Ages onwards, La Petite France became home to craftsmen whose activities were often unpleasant or polluting and therefore pushed away from the city’s more prestigious quarters. Tanneries in particular dominated the area, using river water to treat hides, which contributed to the district’s strong smells and working-class reputation. The name “La Petite France” is generally traced back to the sixteenth century. One explanation links it to a hospice established in the area to treat soldiers suffering from syphilis. Initially it was the name of the hospital the treated the patients, but eventually it became the name for the whole neighbourhood. Architecturally, La Petite France is characterised by its dense concentration of half-timbered houses, many dating from the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries. I love this architectural style and I've written about it quite it a bit previously (a good example is in Stratford). These buildings typically feature wooden frames with infill panels, steeply pitched roofs, and upper storeys that project over narrow streets. Many were designed with open attic spaces to allow animal hides to dry, reflecting the area’s historic industrial function. The layout of the district follows the natural curves of the canals rather than a rigid grid, which I think makes it look super nice. During the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, La Petite France experienced decline. Industrial modernisation reduced the importance of traditional crafts, and many buildings fell into disrepair. The area was associated with poverty and overcrowded housing, and parts of it were considered unsanitary. There were periods when large-scale demolition was proposed, particularly during urban renewal projects in the early twentieth century. However, thankfully these plans were never fully realised. After the Second World War, attitudes towards historic preservation began to shift. Recognition of the architectural and cultural value of La Petite France led to conservation efforts and gradual restoration. Many buildings were renovated, and the district was adapted for residential use, tourism, and hospitality. This transformation accelerated in the late twentieth century, particularly after Strasbourg’s Grande Île was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1988. Today, La Petite France is one of Strasbourg’s most visited areas and it was certainly the busiest during my trip there. It contains a mix of housing, restaurants, hotels, and small businesses, and it is closely associated with the city’s tourist economy. Despite this, it remains a lived-in neighbourhood rather than an open-air museum but there is no getting around the fact that tourists massively outnumber locals. I really enjoyed it. I love the architectural style and the waterways that dot the neighbourhood are beautiful, especially when you cross certain bridges. Barrage Vauban Perhaps the most famous bridge in Strasbourg is at the western edge of the historic centre and is called the Barrage Vauban. It spans the River Ill at the point where several canals meet. It was built in the late seventeenth century and it formed a key component of Strasbourg’s defensive system following the city’s annexation by France in 1681. and it was completed between 1686 and 1700. The main function of the Barrage Vauban was defensive rather than purely architectural. It was designed as a hydraulic fortification, capable of controlling water levels in the surrounding river system. In the event of an attack, sluice gates built into the structure could be closed to raise water levels upstream, flooding the low-lying southern approaches to Strasbourg. This artificial flooding would have made it extremely difficult for enemy troops and artillery to advance towards the city walls. Structurally, the Barrage Vauban is a long, rectangular stone building with thick masonry walls and a series of arches at water level. These arches contain the movable gates that allowed water to pass through under normal conditions or be held back during defensive operations. Above the arches runs an enclosed gallery, originally intended to house soldiers and artillery. Openings along the exterior allowed cannons to be positioned to defend the river approaches, combining hydraulic control with direct military firepower. Despite its military purpose, the Barrage Vauban was also closely connected to the economic life of Strasbourg. The regulation of water levels benefited mills and workshops downstream, many of which were located in the Petite France area. By the nineteenth century, advances in warfare had rendered many early modern fortifications obsolete, and Strasbourg’s defensive system was gradually dismantled or repurposed. The Barrage Vauban lost its military function but remained an integral part of the city’s hydraulic infrastructure. Unlike many other defensive structures, it was not demolished, partly due to its continued practical use and partly because of its prominent position within the historic urban landscape. In the twentieth century, the Barrage Vauban underwent restoration and adaptation. The enclosed gallery was converted into a pedestrian walkway, and a panoramic terrace was added on the roof, providing views over La Petite France, the covered bridges, and the historic centre. This transformation reflected changing attitudes towards heritage, with former military infrastructure reinterpreted as cultural and public space. The barrage became less a tool of defence and more a site of historical interpretation and urban continuity. Today, the Barrage Vauban is a landmark on the edge of the old town, its unique design making it stand out in a city full off stand-out architecture. You can see use the bridge as a footbridge and it's something that I did. Inside, a series of arches take you from one side to the other. Along the perimeter there are a series of bars (a bit like cages or vaults) and within some of those vaults are plaster casts of ancient statues taken from the cathedral, it's a little haunting. Upstairs there is a rooftop terrace that gives you views over La Petite France. Notre Dame de Strasbourg By far the most impressive building in the city is the Notre-Dame de Strasbourg, one of the most significant examples of Gothic architecture in Europe. Located at the heart of Strasbourg’s historic centre on the Grande Île, the cathedral has dominated the city’s skyline and civic life for centuries. I can't express in words how incredible this cathedral looks from the outside. Its footprint is huge, and the way it dominates the skyline reminded me a little of the cathedral in Rouen (that you can read about here). The site of the cathedral has been used for religious purposes since antiquity. Earlier Roman and Carolingian structures once stood there, but the current building largely dates from the late twelfth to the fifteenth century. Construction began in 1176, initially in a Romanesque style, before transitioning into High Gothic as architectural tastes and techniques evolved. The cathedral was built using Vosges sandstone, which gives it its distinctive pink hue that changes with light conditions throughout the day, and during my visit in the afternoon, the light streamed through beautifully. The west facade is among the cathedral’s most notable features. It is richly decorated with sculptural programmes depicting biblical scenes, and saints, and it is also the tallest side, culminating in a single spire rather than the twin towers originally planned. The north tower and spire, completed in 1439, rise to a height of 142 metres. For over two centuries, Strasbourg Cathedral was the tallest building in the world, which is both insane, but also believable because it still looks huge today. There was a bit of a queue to get in, nothing too big, and there was also a bag check at the entrance. They don't allow hats in and initially they asked me to remove my patka but very quickly asked it was religious and when I confirmed they apologised profusely tapped my arm and said please go in, it was a very friendly and positive experience. Inside, the cathedral has extensive stained glass, much of it dating from the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries. These windows illustrate biblical narratives and saints while also serving as a learning tool in a largely illiterate medieval society. Despite damage during various conflicts, a significant portion of the original medieval glass survives, offering insight into Gothic artistic practices and religious expression. Perhaps the standout feature of the entire cathedral is the astronomical clock, or Horloge Astronomique, located right at the entrance. The current clock dates largely from the nineteenth century, though it incorporates elements from earlier versions, the first of which was installed in the fourteenth century. The clock is a complex mechanical and symbolic device, displaying astronomical information such as the phases of the moon, planetary positions, eclipses, and ecclesiastical calendars. It also reflects theological concepts, linking cosmic order with Christian doctrine. It reminded me of similar clocks I have seen in several other continental European countries, most famously in Prague (which you can read about here). You can also climb the cathedral tower, but you have to access through a separate entrance with a long queue, and an 8 Euro charge. I've climbed many cathedral towers across Europe, so I definitely wanted to climb one that for over 200 years was the tallest in Europe. There are just over 300 steps, some of them quite narrow, leading to a platform just below the spire. The ascent offers insight into medieval construction techniques, with close views of stonework, gargoyles, and structural elements that you can't see from the ground. From the viewing platform, there are extensive views over Strasbourg, the Rhine plain, and, in clear conditions, the Black Forest and Vosges mountains. Historically, the tower also served a practical purpose, functioning as a lookout point for fires or military threats, and there is a guards room that displays this incredible history. It was a beautiful climb for me, one of my favourites, and I would definitely recommend to others if you have the means to do so. European Institutions Strasbourg is one of the main cities hosting some of the most important institutions of European cooperation. Its role is the result of deliberate political choices made in the aftermath of the Second World War, shaped by the city’s border location, contested history, and symbolic value as a place of reconciliation between France and Germany. For a city that straddles the border between two countries that went to war three times in less 75 years and switched hands five times in as many centuries, it makes sense for it to play such an important role. The most important institution based in Strasbourg is the European Parliament. Strasbourg is the Parliament’s official seat within the European Union. The Parliament holds its twelve monthly plenary sessions in Strasbourg, during which Members of the European Parliament debate legislation, vote on EU laws, and conduct formal sessions such as the State of the Union address. The European Parliament building in Strasbourg, officially named the Louise Weiss Building, was inaugurated in 1999. Its circular debating chamber was designed to reflect openness and democratic representation, with seating arranged to accommodate all MEPs from member states. The building also includes offices, meeting rooms, and facilities for interpretation and translation, reflecting the EU’s multilingual nature. During my visit one a cold and windy day, the modern glass frontage of the Parliament was the complete opposite of the old town which I had spend the previous day visiting. It's nowhere near as beautiful as some of the other parliament buildings, but I guess the point is the be functional and it seems to achieve that. Alongside the European Parliament, Strasbourg hosts the Council of Europe, which predates the European Union. Founded in 1949, the Council of Europe was established to promote human rights, democracy, and the rule of law across the continent. It currently has a broader membership than the EU, including countries outside the Union. One of the Council of Europe’s most significant bodies is the European Court of Human Rights. The Court hears cases brought by individuals, organisations, or states alleging violations of the European Convention on Human Rights. The Court’s modern building, completed in the 1990s, stands on the banks of the River Ill and has become an architectural and institutional landmark within the city. Strasbourg also hosts the European Directorate for the Quality of Medicines and HealthCare, the European Audiovisual Observatory, and several other specialised bodies linked to the Council of Europe. Together, these institutions employ thousands of people from across Europe which makes Strasbourg an international city. Christmas Markets A big reason for me visiting Strasbourg was to see its famous Christmas markets andStrasbourg is widely associated with Christmas markets as it is one of the oldest centres of this tradition in Europe. Christmas markets are a German tradition, and for most of its existence, Strasbourg has been a German city. The origins of Strasbourg’s Christmas markets can be traced to 1570, when the city authorised a market known as the Christkindelsmärik. At the time, Strasbourg was a free imperial city with a strong Protestant identity following the Reformation. The market replaced earlier religious fairs connected to Saint Nicholas and was intended to provide residents with access to food, gifts, and seasonal goods in the period leading up to Christmas. This early form of the market was practical rather than decorative, focused on everyday needs during winter rather than celebration alone. Over the centuries, the Christkindelsmärik became a recurring fixture of city life, adapting to political and cultural changes as Strasbourg shifted between German and French control. While the market retained its Germanic name and character, it gradually incorporated elements from both traditions. Today, Strasbourg hosts multiple Christmas markets across different squares and neighbourhoods, typically running from late November through December. The Christkindelsmärik itself is centred around Place Broglie and Place Kléber and is the main Christmas market. Around it, additional markets are distributed across the historic centre, including areas near the cathedral, La Petite France, and the former Neustadt. Given they are all located within walking distance, it is easy enough to visit all of them in one go. Each market area tends to have a slightly different emphasis, although all follow broadly similar formats. Wooden chalets are used throughout, reflecting Alpine and Upper Rhine traditions. You have your stalls selling food, drinks, and things like gloves, scarves, and handicrafts. The main market has a performance stage and a huge Christmas which has a big light up ceremony each evening. I caught it and it was pretty cool. The markets attract several million visitors annually, including a large proportion from neighbouring countries such as Germany and Switzerland, as well as international tourists and the main Christmas market was shoulder to shoulder busy. That being said, everyone seemed to be in a good mood, and there's something I like about cold and dark nights, with stalls lit up that feels kind of magical, even as an adult. Would I recommend visiting Strasbourg? Absolutely, I think it's an incredible city. Let me be clear, when I say this, I speak about the historic core. As soon as you venture beyond that, it becomes a normal city, and parts of it have high crime rates. But the thing is, the historic centre is a decent size that you could easily spend a weekend here and have fun. The city is easy enough to get around. There's a main train station that connects it with the rest of France and Europe with regular trains to Germany, Switzerland, and other neighbouring countries. Within the city there is an extensive tram and bus system. The trams run through some of the busiest streets in the old town, so you've got to keep your eyes open, but the transport is cheap, regular, and runs into the late evening. As a Sikh I had no issues at all, but it shouldn't be surprising as it is an international city. For me, for the historic centre, this will be near the top of my list of favourite cities. Comments are closed.
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AuthorBritish Sikh, born in the Midlands, based in London, travelling the world seeing new cultures. 
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