SummaryAirport Rating ***** Reception of locals ***** Cost: £££
Perfect PanamaPanama is a strange country in that I often hear a lot about it, but I still don't know much about it. A weird paradox of sorts. Located on the Pacific coast of Central America, Panama City stands at the southern entry of the Panama Canal, a vital maritime route that has played a significant role in the city’s development and the global economy. The city was founded in 1519 and is the oldest continuously inhabited European settlement on the Pacific coast of the Americas, predating anything on the North and South American coasts, although it doesn't quite have the historic pre-European presence that areas of the Pacific Coast in Peru have (which you can read about here). Panama is the connection between North and South America. The Panamanian Isthmus is narrow strip of land formed when the North American continent collided with the South American continent, 50 miles at its narrowest, which means you can easily get from the Atlantic to Pacific Coasts. Panama City was once a vital point for the Spanish Empire, serving as the starting point for expeditions to Peru, and was a base for transporting treasures from Latin America to Spain. However, in 1671, the city was destroyed by a British pirate, Henry Morgan (you'll hear his name a fair bit in Panama's history). Following its destruction, Panama City was rebuilt a few miles away, creating what we now know as the Casco Viejo or the Old Quarter. With cobblestone streets, colonial buildings, and grand plazas, Casco Viejo is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. With growing United States power, and interest by the French and British for finding a route to cut shipping times from the Atlantic to the Pacific, Panama City became a focal point of further development. First there was an introduction of a railroad, and following that, attempts by the French, and then the Americans, to build a canal across the narrow isthmus. At one point, the quickest way to get goods from New York to San Francisco was through Panama and its railroad. The completion of the Panama Canal in 1914 marked a turning point in Panama City’s fortunes. The Canal transformed the city into an important international port and established it as a significant player in global commerce. The United States initially controlled the canal and the surrounding Canal Zone, and while this brought economic advantages, it also created resentment within Panama. Eventually, the Torrijos-Carter Treaties were signed in 1977 and Panama gained full control of the Canal in 1999. Since then, the Panama Canal has been a source of considerable income for Panama City and the country as a whole, providing billions of dollars in revenue. Panama City is a decent sized city with a population of around 1.5 million people (a little bigger than Birmingham in the UK), representing a significant portion of Panama's total population of about 4.6 million. Economically, Panama City is one of the most prosperous urban centres in Latin America. The service sector dominates, with banking, trade, and tourism at its core. The city has an impressive skyline that houses financial institutions and multinational corporations. The banking sector, known for its favourable tax laws, has attracted individuals and corporations from around the world, although not always legit. Culturally, Panama City is a blend of different influences, with a mix of indigenous, Spanish, African, and Caribbean heritage contributing to its unique character. There is even a small South Asian community, including Sikhs (and an impressive Gurdwara). This diversity is visible in various aspects of city life, from language and architecture to food and festivals. Spanish is the official language, but English is also widely spoken, especially in business contexts, and various indigenous languages can still be heard in the area. Panama City’s geography makes it very special as it is surrounded by rainforests, beaches, and islands, making it a popular destination for tourists. The Metropolitan Natural Park is one of the best urban public parks I have ever seen (and you can read about others here) and is within the city limits, with trails and viewpoints where you can spot wildlife and enjoy panoramic views of the skyline and the Canal. However, Panama City also faces some challenges that I saw during my time. Rapid urbanisation has led to issues like traffic congestion and inadequate public infrastructure. In recent years, efforts have been made to improve public transport, including the development of a modern metro system, the first of its kind in Central America, but this is still fairly small. Pollution, both air and water, is another concern, as are socio-economic disparities. Many neighbourhoods on the city’s periphery lack essential services, and poverty remains a pressing issue. As a tourist, it is a great experience, but it's important to acknowledge that some of the locals have different experiences. That being said, it's a place I really grew to love during my 10-day stay. As a Sikh, I had no issues at immigration in the airport during entry, or at security during exit. The airport is fairly big, with one modern terminal, and one very dated terminal - but everything was easy enough to navigate. The airport is a short distance from the city and transport is readily available, but the truth is, Uber is just so cheap here it is insane. A trip from the airport costs less than $20 (US dollars are readily accepted in Panama), and long 20 minute taxis from downtown to the old town never cost more than $5. Downtown Panama CityI stayed in the downtown area of Panama City which is characterised by modern skyscrapers and busy streets. The Obarrio district, considered one of the city’s central neighbourhoods is close to the main business district. This district, along with its neighbouring areas such as El Cangrejo and Bella Vista, is densely packed with hotels, offices, shopping centres, and eateries, making it a primary area for both business and recreation. It's not the most culturally distinct place. Whenever you're in a neighbourhood with tall skyscrapers it can be difficult to determine whether you're in Central America or the Middle East, but Obarrio manages to create its own little vibe. I'm not saying it's this amazing energy, but it is distinct and felt relatively safe when walking around, even at night. Panama City’s downtown area is also well-connected to the rest of the city via the metro system, which has stations in nearby districts. Public buses and taxis are also readily available, although traffic can be a challenge during peak hours. The metro, which is small but relatively new, is helping to alleviate some of the congestion in the city centre. The airport, Tocumen International, is about a 30-minute drive from downtown, making it relatively easy for international travellers to reach this area. Casco Viejo - Panama City's old townThe real beauty, however, lay a 20-minute car journey from my hotel, and it is the old town - or Casco Viejo as it is known. The old town is Panama City’s historic quarter and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Founded in 1673 after the destruction of the original Panama City by the pirate Henry Morgan (told you that you'd hear the name again), Casco Viejo reflects Panama's history and modernity in one. Situated on a peninsula and surrounded by fortified walls, it was built as a strategic location for defence against pirates and other invasions. Its architectural layout and style reflect a blend of Spanish, French, and indigenous influences, showcasing a historical mixture unique to Panama. Deep in the old town, you really feel like you could be in a Spanish city. Architecturally, Casco Viejo is a showcase of colonial and neoclassical styles, featuring buildings with gorgeous balconies, central courtyards, and distinctive tiled roofs. The area is home to a lot of important historic landmarks, including the Metropolitan Cathedral, the Presidential Palace, and the Church of San José. The area has seen significant investment in recent years, with historical buildings transformed into boutique hotels, art galleries, cafes, and restaurants. Casco Viejo is also known for its nightlife and has more rooftop bars than you could imagine. I don't promote bar culture in this blog, but if you're in Panama City, the rooftops are a must just for their views and you can go in and just have some food and relax. The people are super friendly and welcoming, so don't be shy. The community in Casco Viejo is diverse, including long-time Panamanian residents, international visitors, and a growing population of expats. While most of it seems incredibly upmarket, there are still areas of poverty and it's strange to see such high-end boutiques next to some desperate living conditions, although it seems to be a common thread globally, even in so-called rich countries. While much of Casco Viejo has been restored, some areas remain under development, and preservation efforts are ongoing. Property values have increased significantly, leading to discussions around the impact of gentrification and the need for policies that balance tourism and cultural preservation. I spent most of my evenings in the neighbourhood, and even after 10 days, I was still impressed by the beauty. Walking through the narrow cobblestone streets, sitting in the large public squares, finding new places to eat or rest - honestly, this was one of my favourite neighbourhoods in any city that I have visited. The evening walks especially were just incredible, with dimly lit side streets, gorgeous cafes, a lot of souvenir shops, and some great restaurants. It felt a little like a maze where you didn't know what could be right around the corner - but it was always something good. On the perimeter is a small covered market right next to the ocean, surrounded by a large causeway (which is not worth reviewing) and incredible views of the city skyline. Iglesia de la MercedWithin Casco Vieja is the magnificent Iglesia de la Merced - one of the oldest and most historically significant churches in Panama City. Built in the early 16th century, it still has preserved colonial architecture and a facade that has withstood centuries of change. The origins of Iglesia de la Merced date back to 1519, when Panama City was first established on the Pacific coast by Spanish explorers. Originally built in what is now known as Panama Viejo, the church was among the buildings destroyed by Henry Morgan who I mentioned earlier. Following this devastation, the church was carefully dismantled, and its stones were transported to Casco Viejo, which had been chosen as the new city location after the original site was left in ruins. The church was then reconstructed in Casco Viejo, where it has remained ever since. The architecture of Iglesia de la Merced is distinctly colonial, featuring a facade made of grey stone and a high central arch flanked by two smaller ones. This architectural style was typical of the Spanish colonial period, marked by modest, yet solid structures designed to withstand the tropical climate. It dominates the square that it is on and takes up an entire side of the perimeter. Inside, the church is simple but elegant, with high wooden ceilings and a series of side chapels. The altar is understated, yet beautiful, adorned with religious iconography typical of Spanish colonial churches, such as statues of the Virgin Mary and various saints. Compared to other Catholic churches, the decoration here was sparser giving the interior a cleaner for minimalist feel. The church is known for its massive, heavy doors and thick stone walls, which have helped it survive fires, earthquakes, and other natural disasters over the centuries. It is a beautiful building in a beautiful neighbourhood. Panama Canal MuseumAnd speaking of beautiful buildings in Casco Viejo, they don't get much nicer than the Panama Canal Museum. The museum is dedicated to the history, construction, and impact of the Panama Canal, and it is housed in a 19th-century building that once served as the French Canal Company headquarters. The museum opened in 1997, and the building itself is an attraction, with its restored facade reflecting Panama’s architectural history and its colonial past. Tickets for the museum are reasonably priced, with general admission costing around $10 for adults and it is cheaper for locals (as it should be). The exhibits in the Museo del Canal are organised chronologically, taking visitors through the different phases of the canal’s history, beginning with pre-Colombian times, when indigenous communities inhabited the isthmus. Artefacts from these early periods, including pottery, tools, and jewellery, are displayed to provide context about Panama's early inhabitants and the strategic significance of the region. A major portion of the museum is dedicated to the canal’s construction, offering insight into the political, engineering, and human challenges faced during this monumental project. Detailed displays describe the French attempt to build the canal in the late 19th century, led by Ferdinand de Lesseps, the same engineer who designed the Suez Canal. This section of the exhibit highlights the French effort’s ultimate failure due to harsh tropical conditions, high costs, and the devastation caused by yellow fever and malaria among the workforce. Historical documents, maps, and photographs from this period illustrate the ambitious nature of the project and the difficulties faced. The American period of construction, which began in 1904, is thoroughly covered with exhibits that delve into the medical, engineering, and organisational advances that allowed the canal to be completed. A significant portion of the museum’s collection is dedicated to the United States' efforts to combat diseases like malaria and yellow fever, showcasing the importance of medical innovation in tropical environments. Displays include period medical equipment, historical documents, and photographs of notable figures such as Dr William Gorgas, who played a key role in eradicating the mosquito-borne illnesses that plagued earlier workers. Another key area of the museum covers the political and social implications of the canal for Panama. Exhibits explore Panama’s journey towards reclaiming sovereignty over the canal, which had been under U.S. administration for much of the 20th century. This section includes documents, photographs, and news articles about significant events, such as the signing of the Torrijos-Carter Treaties in 1977, which outlined the transfer of control from the U.S. to Panama by the end of 1999. The exhibits are well shown, and most (but not all) have English translations making them easy to follow. It isn't a huge museum, and it is easy to see all of it in less than 90 minutes, but the stories, artefacts, and history are all so interesting. I found it very easy to follow and I massively enjoyed the visit learning a lot of new things in the process. Ancon HillOne of the first things that I noticed about Panama City was just how green it was, in a way, it reminded me of Nairobi (which you can read about here). It shouldn't be surprising, the country is located in a tropical climate, and large parts of the country are covered by rainforest. The humidity is strong pretty much all year round, and it was particularly strong during my visit which was in the middle of the wet season. A large area of greenery that is difficult to miss when you're in downtown or Casco Viejo is Ancon Hill, or Cerro Ancón. The hill is a prominent natural landmark within Panama City, rising to a height of 199 metres and offering sweeping views of the city, the Panama Canal, and the surrounding region. Located close to the downtown area, Ancon Hill is a protected area that serves as a small but ecologically important enclave of tropical forest in the midst of the urban landscape. The hill’s vegetation is characteristic of the tropical rainforest ecosystem, with dense forests that provide a habitat for a range of plants and animals. The taxi ride from downtown was relatively short and very cheap. Ancon Hill is accessible via a paved trail, making it a relatively straightforward climb that takes around 30 minutes, depending on pace and the number of stops made along the way. It took just under half an hour and I stopped along the way to take in the views. The trail is moderately steep but manageable and felt a little easier than the walk I did up the Rock of Gibralter (which you can read about here). At the summit there is a decent expanse of flat land with benches all around so you can relax and have views over either the city side, or the canal side. There is a large Panamanian flag which you can see from around the city, and while it was slightly busy when I was there, space wasn't really a problem. Given the greenery, there were all sorts of birds and animals that come very close to you - I saw an armadillo and a vulture very close up! Metropolitan Natural ParkBut if you really want to feel nature and greenery within the city, there is no place better than the Metropolitan Natural Park. The park covers an area of approximately 265 hectares and is absolutely huge. The park was established in 1985 and is a protected area dedicated to preserving a tropical forest ecosystem within the city’s urban landscape. The park is a little further away from the main city than Ancon Hill, and when I went, even the taxi driver struggled to find the entrance (but he thankfully, and without asking, persevered). The entrance has a small building where you pay $4 to enter and you get shown a map of the park, and that's it, you're left to your own devices. The initial path was quite busy, but after a few minutes of walking the paths begin to split off and all of a sudden the park feels huge and empty. The park’s ecosystem is characterised by dense vegetation and tropical tree species that form a canopy that shelters a variety of animal species. The park is known for its diverse bird population, with species such as toucans, hawks, and parrots. Mammals, such as sloths, howler monkeys, and coatis, are also common. I saw didn't see sloths or monkeys, but I did see a couple of coatis, the first time I've seen them in real life. I saw a lot of leaf cutter ants crisscrossing along the floor, all carrying pieces of vegetation. Some of the ants I saw were the size of spiders, and some of the spiders were the size of mice. For a boy from the UK, it was strange af. Several well-maintained trails run through the park, each offering a different experience of its natural beauty. The trails vary in difficulty and length, making the park accessible to visitors of different fitness levels. The “Cedar Hill” trail is one of the most popular, leading to a viewpoint that offers panoramic views of Panama City, the Bay of Panama, and even the Bridge of the Americas in the distance. This trail typically takes around an hour to complete with a short but steep climb towards the end. I decided to walk around the entire park taking different paths and it took me most of the afternoon. The views from the top were great, in some ways similar to those from Ancon Hill (as you can see from my photos above) but the perspective was quite different in person. Here, the vegetation, the forest, everything felt very dense, and the city felt further away. On the way back I took a completely different route, which was even quieter than that on the way up and it was just a fantastic experience. The heat and humidity were insane, and I had to keep my t shirt in my bag just to stay cool. That being said, having so much skin on show led to a few bites, and back in the taxi on the way home I noticed a decent sized jumping spider had decided to make the open side pocket of my bag his new home. Once I left the taxi I dropped the spider off in new area of vegetation. I wonder what new adventures he is having now. The Panama CanalOf course, the most famous landmark in Panama is the canal, which is about an hours' drive outside the main city. The canal was originally opened in 1914 designed to connect the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, dramatically reducing the travel distance for ships that would otherwise have to navigate the dangerous and lengthy Cape Horn at the southern tip of South America. Spanning 50 miles, the canal takes vessels around 8 to 10 hours to cross, providing a crucial passageway for trade, and for Panama it is an excellent revenue source. The idea of a canal across the isthmus of Panama dates back to the 16th century. Spanish explorers first considered the concept, but it wasn’t until the French attempted construction in the 1880s that a large-scale effort began. The project, however, was plagued by tropical diseases, challenging terrain, and high costs, leading to its eventual abandonment. In 1904, the United States took over, employing advanced engineering techniques and medical innovations to combat yellow fever and malaria, which had ravaged French workers. After ten years of construction, the canal officially opened under U.S. management. Control of the canal was finally transferred to Panama on December 31, 1999, after a lot of protests, some killings, and even an invasion. Today, the Panama Canal plays an essential role in global commerce, accommodating around 14,000 ships annually and facilitating approximately 6% of the world’s maritime trade. Ships from across the globe use this route to save time, fuel, and the danger of lost containers if they go down the southern route around South America. The canal generates a lot of money through tolls, which vary depending on the vessel’s size, type, and cargo. For a large cargo ship, a single transit can cost upwards of $500,000 to $1 million. In recent years, the canal has consistently generated more than $2 billion annually, contributing significantly to Panama’s economy. Revenue from the canal supports various national initiatives, including infrastructure development, healthcare, and education. Its contributions represent around 2% to 3% of Panama’s GDP which is a huge amount of money. In 2016, the Panama Canal Expansion Project, led to the construction of new, larger locks capable of accommodating ships three times of size of those that can currently traverse the canal. This increases capacity and also income for country, not only do they let more ships through, but they charge the larger ships more money. It's weird, because where I come from, we are surrounded by canals - in fact the area around my home has more miles of canal than Venice. But the only boats we see are pretty small canal boats. Here, you have a fairly narrow canal, with absolutely humungous ships going through them. Entry into the canal area is ticketed and the whole place feels like a large cinema - they even have a film narrated my Morgan Freeman and advertised all over the building which they really want you to see. I skipped it. Anyway, you have a few platforms where you can stand and watch the ships go by. I say ships, but each ship can take about 40 minutes coming through each lock as the height of the water changes to change the level of the ships. It's cool to see once, tedious the second time, and I'm not sure who would stay for a third ship. The whole place is heavily commercialised, and while I was happy to see one ship, I left very quickly after that. Gurdwara in Panama CityThe thing that surprised me the most was to learn there is a Gurdwara in Panama City. Perhaps it shouldn't. I have visited Gurdwaras in the most unlikely countries, and Panama is a place where some South Asians came to work during the construction of the canal and as the city evolved into a banking hub in the second half of the 20th century. The Panama Gurdwara is a central place of worship for the Sikh community in Panama. Located in the Bethania neighbourhood of Panama City, this gurdwara is one of the more impressive ones that I have seen south of the United States. The Sikh community in Panama traces its origins back to the early 20th century, with the first Sikhs arriving during the construction of the Panama Canal. Like other immigrant groups, Sikhs faced initial challenges, including language barriers, adapting to a new climate, and cultural differences. However, they gradually established themselves, often working as merchants, labourers, and, over time, as business owners. The Sikh community from Panjab is still quite small, but it is supplemented by Sindhis that also follow the teachings of Guru Nanak. I caught a taxi (again very cheap) from downtown, and it was about a 15-20 minute drive. I saw the Gurdwara from the end of the road, which doesn't have many other buildings nearby. It looked magnificent! The first Gurdwara was a modest building but was updated in 1986 to its current premises. The building itself is distinct, adorned with traditional Sikh architectural features, including a domed structure, which differentiates it from the surrounding urban landscape. The beautiful white marble like material looked glistening in the Panamanian sun. The interior reflects the simplicity of Guru Nanak's message, with a well-proportioned langar hall and decent sized darbar hall that is wider than longer - a relatively rare layout. I visited twice, once on each Sunday, and found a Gurdwara that had quite a large community, although not very many Singhs. Kirtan was done in a slightly different style that I am used to, with a small dholki and singing alone. I quite liked the difference. The darbar hall was quite busy during my second visit, but my first visit - later in the afternoon - was quieter. It allowed me to spend some time speaking with the Granthi Singh who told me a little about the community and the history of the Gurdwara. When I told him I wanted to take some photos for my blog, he very excitedly showed me the main wooden doors (which are beautiful) and humbly stepped aside. But I really wanted to make sure I had a photo of this beautiful soul, and so I invited him to step in front of the doors. He was very open with his stories and told me he was bilingual in Spanish and English. In fact, at the front of the Gurdwara are two tiles in the building that have Spanish inscriptions about the Gurdwara and the sangat that helped build it. With a significant portion of the community being first- or second-generation Sikhs, the gurdwara provides language classes in Punjabi, cultural programmes, and educational sessions about Sikh history and traditions. It hosts celebrations for major Sikh festivals and is very much playing an important role in keeping Sikhi going strongly. Would I recommend visiting Panama City?Yes, absolutely. I had such a good time in Panama, particularly around the Casco Viejo area, the urban parks and hills, and of course - the chance to see this incredible Gurdwara. I loved the people, the food, and it was another opportunity to improve my Spanish, which is now getting pretty decent (I think). As a Sikh I faced absolutely no issues whatsoever. Compared to the capitals of neighbouring countries, Panama City is safe, although it still has its dodgy areas, like any other city, so it is important to be vigilant. For me, Panama City goes near the top of the list of cities that I enjoyed visiting! Comments are closed.
|
AuthorBritish Sikh, born in the Midlands, based in London, travelling the world seeing new cultures. Categories
All
|