Nice, France

Summary

Airport Rating *****
Reception of locals ****
Cost: £££££

• A city that manages to blend French, Italian, and even British influences
• It's not cheap, but this is the French Riviera, one of the most expensive places on the planet
• No real issues as a Sikh in the city or the airport
• Main Sights: Colline du Chateau, Old Town, Promenade des Anglais, Cascade, Garibaldi Square

Greek, Italian, French

Nice is the most Mediterranean of cities, not just because it sits on the Mediterranean coast along the French Riviera, but because over the centuries it has been under Greek, Italian, and French rule. Today, it is the fifth largest city in France and the second most visited city in the country making it socially, culturally, and economically significant.

The city was founded around 350 BCE by the Greeks and named after Nike, the goddess of victory. It became an important centre under Roman rule before being part of the Duchy of Savoy and the Kingdom of Sardinia. It remained under Sardinian rule until 1860, when it was officially ceded to France following a referendum. This transition was hotly protested as the local population had closer cultural ties to the new nation of Italy, but given it would facilitate Italian unification, both Italian and French leaders wanted to make the swap.

As the transitioned happened, and despite resistance from Italian anarchists, during the late part of the 19th century Nice became a favourite destination for European aristocrats, particularly British elites, who helped shape the city’s infrastructure. The famous Promenade des Anglais, the long seafront boulevard, owes its name to the English visitors who funded its construction. The city continued to develop throughout the 20th century, becoming an important centre of tourism, commerce, and art.

Today, Nice remains a huge tourist destination, attracting millions of visitors each year who come for its mild Mediterranean climate, scenic coastline, and history. The historic old town, Vieux Nice, with its narrow streets and lively markets, contrasts with more modern districts such as the business centre around Nice Étoile which is less ... nice (I had to use this once).

Nice is also an important transport hub, home to France’s third-busiest airport, Nice Côte d’Azur Airport, which connects the city to destinations across Europe and beyond. The airport plays a crucial role in both tourism and business, serving as a gateway to the entire French Riviera - I landed here when I went to Monaco. The airport itself is small, but nicely kept, fairly modern, and I had no issues going through immigration or security checks as a Sikh and no problem going through with my salai either.

Nice has a metropolitan population of over one million people when including surrounding suburbs so it's a sizeable region but the demographic skews older given the cost, warm climate, and a more laid-back lifestyle. These are the same things that attracted British elites over a hundred years ago and keeps bringing richer tourists back today.

I'm not rich but I made a short stop in Nice to see what all the fuss was all about that bought a huge British community here over a century ago and keeps people visiting now.

Vieux Nice

I walked around the city a decent amount but I spent most of my short stay in the old town which is also known as Vieux Nice. The neighbourhood is in between the Mediterranean coastline and the modern city, with a maze of narrow, winding streets, colourful facades, bustling markets, and lively squares that you would expect from an old town.

Now if you've read my European blogs, then you know I really love old towns and this doesn't disappoint. Vieux Nice has retained much of its 17th- and 18th-century character, with its architecture, markets, and cultural landmarks reflecting a blend of Italian and French influences. Its origins date back over a thousand years, but the area saw its greatest period of development in the Middle Ages and early modern era.  The area was designed with defensive purposes in mind, with narrow streets and tightly packed buildings providing protection against invaders.

In 1860, Nice officially became part of France, but the Italian influence remained strong, especially in the old town. Even today, the district has a distinctively Mediterranean feel, with ochre and pastel-coloured buildings, green wooden shutters, and a lively street life that echoes the neighbourhoods Florence (which you can read about here). Over time, Vieux Nice became the city's social and commercial hub, with its markets, churches, and public squares forming the backbone of daily life.

Unlike the grand boulevards of more modern areas of Nice, Vieux Nice is intimate, with buildings leaning closely together, casting cooling shadows that provide relief from the Mediterranean sun. One of the most iconic streets is Rue Saint-Francois de Paule, which connects the neighbourhood to the waterfront and is lined with historic shops, restaurants, and art boutiques. Rue de la Préfecture and Rue Droite are also major thoroughfares, with a mix of residential buildings, local businesses, and art galleries. 

At the heart of Vieux Nice is Cours Saleya, the most famous market square in the city. In the days, it hosts the Marche aux Fleurs, a flower and produce market selling fresh fruit, vegetables, spices, and local delicacies. The square is lined with cafes and restaurants, making it an ideal place to sit back and relax. The many boutique shops are pricey but worth seeing, even if you don't buy anything.

There's a couple of places I really liked in Vieux Nice. First is Nice Cathedral - which is officially known as Cathedrale Sainte-Reparate de Nice. It's a beautiful 17th-century Baroque church dedicated to Saint Reparata, the patron saint of Nice. The cathedral’s design is heavily influenced by Italian Baroque architecture, reflecting the city’s historical ties with the Kingdom of Sardinia. The cathedral’s dome, covered in colourful tiles, is a distinctive feature that stands out in the surrounding alleyways. 

A short walk from the cathedral is Place Garibaldi, one of Nice’s most famous squares. The song was named after the famous Italian general Giuseppe Garibaldi, who was born in Nice and so it's not surprising that the square is a blend of French and Italian influences. The elegant yellow facades with green shutters are very easy on the eyes, while the grand statue of Garibaldi at its centre serves as a reminder of the city’s complex history and shifting allegiances between Italy and France. Originally designed in the late 18th century, Place Garibaldi is one of the oldest squares in Nice and has been a hub of political and social activity for centuries. Today, it is a lively spot, surrounded by cafés, restaurants, and shops.

But for me, the best thing about Vieux Nice, as it is with other old towns in Europe, is just the sense of not knowing what's around the corner and I always love that feeling. Couple that with the beautiful architecture and you've got yourself an old town that - while not on the scale of Naples (which you can read about here) - is almost as good as any other.

Castle Hill and the Cascade

Nearby is Colline du Chateau, or Castle Hill, one of the most iconic landmarks in the city which offers panoramic views of Nice, the Mediterranean Sea, and the surrounding coastline. Despite its name, there is no longer a chateau on the hill, as the original fortress was destroyed in the early 18th century. Today, the area is a public park, popular with amazing views, lush greenery, and the beautiful artificial waterfall known as La Cascade. 

Castle Hill was fortified in the Middle Ages and became the heart of Nice’s defences. The castle was built by the Counts of Provence and later expanded under the Duchy of Savoy, as Nice was frequently caught in conflicts between France, Italy, and Spain. The fortress was considered nearly impenetrable, serving as a stronghold against naval and land attacks. However, in 1706, during the War of the Spanish Succession, French King Louis XIV ordered the complete destruction of the castle to prevent it from being used against France in the future. After its demolition, the hill was largely abandoned, and its military significance faded.

In the 19th century, as Nice became a popular destination for wealthy British elites, the area was transformed into a public park. Landscaped gardens, walkways, and a man-made waterfall were introduced, turning what was once a battlefield into a peaceful retreat.

Castle Hill is easily accessible from Vieux Nice and there are several ways to reach the top, each offering a different experience. I took a walking path from the edge of Vieux Nice and it's a decent climb but well worth it - and on the way down I took stairs to the port side - but there is also a lift that can be taken and is free to use for those that might not have the mobility. Perhaps most unique of all is a small tourist train that leaves from the Promenade des Anglais, through Vieux Nice, and onto the hill.

The most spectacular feature of Castle Hill is La Cascade, an artificial waterfall that cascades down the rock face near the western edge of the hill. It was built in the 19th century as part of the park’s beautification efforts and the water comes straight from the Alps. At night, when the lights shine behind the waterfall it looks absolutely incredible. I spent a decent amount of time in front of the waterfall. There is something about the sound of falling water that is so unbelievably relaxing, particularly after a bit of a climb uphill, and knowing you've just come from the busy streets of the old town below.

The main lookout point is just a short climb further and it offers brilliant views of Nice’s sweeping coastline, with the Baie des Anges (Bay of Angels) stretching out below. To the west, the Promenade des Anglais and the red-tiled rooftops of Vieux Nice create a postcard-perfect scene. Watching the city lit up below while planes landed in the distance and the sea merged into the darkness of the sky was a memorable experience made better by the fact that later in the evening there was barely anyone else up there. I can imagine it must be significantly busier during the summer season.

Promenade des Anglais

The Promenade des Anglais is one of the most famous and picturesque waterfront promenades in the world. With its palm trees, sweeping sea views, and iconic blue chairs, the promenade is a big part of what makes the French Riviera as famous as it is

The origins of the promenade date back to the early 19th century. At the time, Nice was not yet part of France—it belonged to the Kingdom of Sardinia—but it had already become a popular winter retreat for wealthy British aristocrats. The mild Mediterranean climate made it an ideal escape from the harsh winters of the British Isles.

Around 1820, an unusually cold winter brought a large number of beggars into the city. In response, an English reverend named Lewis Way proposed a public works project that would give these individuals employment while also improving the city. With funding from the British community in Nice, construction of a modest waterfront walkway began. The pathway was initially called the "Chemin des Anglais" (Path of the English) in recognition of its British benefactors.

Over time, the city expanded and invested more in the project. When Nice was officially annexed by France in 1860, the promenade was significantly widened and renamed the Promenade des Anglais. By the late 19th and early 20th centuries, it had become an elegant and prestigious boulevard lined with luxurious hotels, casinos, and grand villas and so began the famous French Riviera.

Today, the Promenade des Anglais extends for just over 4 miles, running from Nice Côte d’Azur Airport in the west to the Colline du Château in the east. The promenade is divided into different sections, including pedestrian walkways, cycling lanes, and roads for vehicles. It's amazing that two hundred years after it was first conceived, this part of the city is the​ most famous landmark in the city.

Would I recommend visiting Nice?

The city itself is not cheap, but getting here from Birmingham or London is insanely good value and budget airlines at certain times of the year can get you into Nice for less than £50 return. Once you're here, yes, the cost becomes steep and it's not a city that I could have afforded when I was younger.

There are other places along the French and Italian coastline that might be cheaper or more lowkey, but Nice pretty much invented international tourism. Long before Barcelona, Venice, and Amsterdam became the places for mass tourism, Nice was first - and while the tourism was limited to the upper classes, it would still have been in its day the equivalent of the cities I've mentioned today.

That's good and bad. In Nice you mainly see the positives - a city that was partly built by tourists, that became world famous because of wealthy tourists, and that today is not subject to levels of mass tourism and short-term rentals that are destroying many other cities in Europe for locals.

As a Sikh I had no issues at all getting in, around, and out the city. It's quite multicultural and there is a decent amount to see and do in and around the city. Based on that, if you're a Sikh starting off on your travels and you have a little bit of money saved up, Nice is well worth the visit.