SummaryAirport Rating ***** Reception of locals **** Cost: £££
Bombay to MumbaiIndia is a country that has always intrigued me. It is a relatively new nation, existing for less than a century, but the culture of its people dates back thousands of years and influences the Subcontinent as well as parts of south-east Asia. India is an incredible collection of different people, religions, and ethnicities in one state. In many ways it reminds me of the European Union, although it predates the EU by over a decade! It's perhaps more similar to the Austro-Hungarian Empire, another collection of different people and religions that was more centralised with power residing largely in one group. Of course, that empire no longer exists, and it'll be interesting to see if the collection of people that constitute India remain in one centralised union or whether they become more autonomous over time like the EU, or whether they become completely independent like the states that constituted the Austro-Hungarian Empire - only time will tell. Many of the states that constitute India were vibrant independent nations at some point in their histories. Some of these states have been assimilated or subsumed into India, while others still retain a strong link to their past. One of the largest states that now constitutes India is Maharashtra, the successor to the Maratha Empire, once one of the most powerful nations in Asia, today a state in a broader union of people. But unlike some nations that have regressed as part of this union, Maharashtra has managed to carve itself an important role in the new Indian nation. The state - one of the richest in India - contains the city of Mumbai, the commercial and entertainment hub of the new country. It is one of the largest cities in the world with a population of over 20 million, and a global cultural powerhouse. I've been to Panjab a few times, but my time in India has been quite limited. And although it was my first trip to Mumbai, I've been to Maharashtra before to visit Takht Hazur Sahib, although that was an almost 12-hour drive from Mumbai. Let's start with the name. Officially the city is Mumbai after a name change in 1995, but locally very few people seem to refer to it as Mumbai. Everyone that I spoke to seemed to call in Bombay and the majority of signs on shops around the city also show Bombay. This paradox permeates throughout the city whether it's the name, the dispersal of wealth, or the impact of pollution on a city that loves nature. The city has a long history - mostly as a small settlement - with Mumbai transforming from a group of seven islands to the thriving metropolis that it is today. It has, throughout its history, been passed around from nation to nation, empire to empire. While traditionally it has been in the zone of influence of the Maratha nation, today it is a part of India. The original seven islands were home to the Marathi speaking Koli fishing community, who are considered the city's indigenous inhabitants. These islands were part of the Maurya Empire during the 3rd century BCE and later saw rule by the Satavahanas, Rashtrakutas, and Chalukyas. In the medieval period, the islands came under the control of the Gujarat Sultanate. The Portuguese acquired the islands in 1534, naming them "Bom Bahia," which means "Good Bay." Parts of Mumbai were part of the powerful Maratha Empire which dominated central India during the 17th century, although they exercised limited rule over the city of Mumbai which was largely in the possession of the Portuguese during this time. The founder of the Maratha dynasty was Shivaji Shahaji Bhonsale, a talented warrior and statesman. His impact is still felt around the city today with cars, shops, and businesses decorated by his photos. His story is worth reading, and as a contemporary of Guru Tegh Bahadur and Guru Gobind Singh, it is really interesting to see how different countries in the Subcontinent were becoming restless under Mughal rule at the same time. It also helps contextualize our own history while also learning more about others. In 1661, the islands were gifted to the British Crown as part of the marriage treaty between Catherine of Braganza and King Charles II. The British East India Company leased the islands in 1668, and they became a significant trading hub. By the mid-19th century, the city underwent a series of reclamation projects that physically merged the seven islands into a single landmass. The construction of infrastructure like the Suez Canal in 1869 and the emergence of Mumbai as a major port further propelled its growth. Today, within a new country, its population is a mix of ethnic, linguistic, and religious diversity, with Marathi, Hindi, Gujarati, and English widely spoken. While the majority of residents are Hindus, the city also has substantial Muslim, Christian, Parsi, and Jain communities - the Sikh community is tiny. The union of different countries into one centralized state has made it easier for people to move across borders (just like the EU). In one sense it has bought separate people, languages, ethnicities, and religions together, but in another sense, it has diluted the Marathi character. Economically, Mumbai is the financial powerhouse of India. It hosts the Bombay Stock Exchange, the Reserve Bank of India, and numerous multinational corporations, domestic companies, and startups. The city contributes significantly to the country’s GDP, with industries ranging from finance, technology, and pharmaceuticals to textiles, petrochemicals, and real estate. Its port handles a significant portion of India’s trade, while its role as the headquarters for Bollywood, India's prolific film industry, cements its position as a cultural capital. Despite its economic growth, Mumbai faces severe inequalities, some of the most visible of any major city that I have visited. While it has some of the most expensive real estate in the world, a considerable percentage of its population lives in informal settlements or slums. In fact, landing in the beautiful airport in Mumbai, you see miles and miles of tents and corrugated metal roofs that line the slums and shanty towns of the city. The airport was recently renovated and is very modern and was relatively easy to get through. during my visit. It's not the friendliest airport, but it wasn't a bad experience either. Getting into the city is quite straight forward as Uber is available and reasonably priced, but no matter how much you prepare yourself, it's still a shock when you see just how many people are in this city. It really is astounding. Even in the middle of the night! I arrived after midnight and there were groups of young men all over the city either riding bikes, standing on street corners, or just chatting. There was an energy in the city that made it feel like the real "city that never sleeps". The British InfluenceIronically, the most impressive architecture in Mumbai is not Marathi nor Indian, bur rather British. The main landmarks and attractions in Mumbai are all British built Gothic style architecture from the Victorian age - somewhat unsurprising considering the city was largely built and developed by the Portuguese and British over several hundred years from a small port to a large commercial and cultural hub. The 19th and early 20th centuries saw a burst of architectural activity in Mumbai as the British sought to create a cityscape reflective of their imperial power and aesthetics. Victorian architecture became a dominant style during this period and it's a fusion of Gothic Revival, Neoclassical, and Indo-Saracenic designs. These styles were adapted to local conditions, materials, and influences, resulting in a distinctive blend of European and Marathi elements. - which themselves have more recently been supported by a broader Indian style. Many of these structures were built during a time when Mumbai was transforming from a collection of islands into a cohesive urban centre. This transformation was facilitated by extensive land reclamation projects, the growth of the port, and the influx of wealth from trade, particularly cotton. The British government and wealthy local merchants collaborated to finance and design these ambitious architectural projects, resulting in iconic buildings that still define Mumbai’s skyline. One of the best examples of this architecture is the Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Terminus, formerly known as Victoria Terminus. This UNESCO World Heritage Site is one of the most recognisable landmarks in the city and a masterpiece of Gothic Revival architecture. Designed by British architect Frederick William Stevens, the station was completed in 1888 and originally named after Queen Victoria to commemorate her Golden Jubilee. The building’s structure is based on Gothic Revival architecture that is shown in its pointed arches, ribbed vaults, and flying buttresses. However, it also incorporates elements inspired by local Marathi architecture, such as intricate stone carvings, domes, and motifs resembling Marathi flora and fauna. The central dome, a standout feature, is crowned by a statue symbolising progress. Walking outside, the local authorities have built a small stage opposite the station given so many people would stop in the road to take photos. It's a nice little addition although you need to get closer to the station to take in all the details and it's not an easy area to navigate with pavements that are packed full of people and a large main road that passes directly in front of the station. Crowd control measures are frequently employed by authorities to manage the quantity of people passing through the station or just visiting to check it out. The interiors of station are as impressive as its exteriors. The grand central hall, with its high vaulted ceilings and ornate ironwork, reflects the grandeur of Victorian design. The stained-glass windows, carved woodwork, and decorative tiles further enhance the station’s aesthetic appeal. Even today, it remains one of the busiest railway stations in India, serving as a vital transportation hub for millions. I spent a little bit of time just watching people running for their trains and getting off, it's a great setting for people watching. While the station is undoubtedly the crown jewel of Victorian architecture in Mumbai, the city is home to numerous other buildings from the same era, each with its own unique story and design. The Bombay High Court, completed in 1878, is another fine example of Gothic Revival architecture. Designed by British engineer Col. James A. Fuller, the building features characteristic pointed arches, lancet windows, and a majestic central tower. Lit up at night it looks even more impressive. Next door, the University of Mumbai buildings, including the Rajabai Clock Tower and the Convocation Hall, are significant landmarks. The Rajabai Clock Tower, completed in 1878, was designed by Sir George Gilbert Scott and inspired by the Big Ben in London. The tower’s design incorporates Venetian Gothic elements and is decorated with intricate carvings and stained glass. A little further down the road is the Elphinstone College, founded in 1856, is another remarkable example of Victorian Gothic design. The building features a mix of Gothic and Saracenic elements, with intricately carved arches, balustrades, and gabled roofs. The college’s campus exudes an old-world charm and continues to function as an educational institution. Luxury and PovertyMumbai is home to one of the world's most famous hotels - the Taj Mahal Palace. Located in the Colaba district, overlooking the Arabian Sea and adjacent to the Gateway of India, the hotel has been a feature of the city for over a century. It's important to note that wealth in India is concentrated in the hands of a few oligarchs and families, one of the most famous being the Tata family. The Taj Mahal Palace Hotel was built in 1903, commissioned by Jamsetji Tata, the founder of the Tata Group. The construction was completed at a cost of approximately ₹2.5 million, an extraordinary amount at the time. The area around the hotel is probably the most upmarket in the city, and certainly in south Mumbai. The cramped and dirty streets give way to wider roads, beautiful architecture, and high-end stores. These are just a stones throw away from some of the largest slums in the world. When it was completed, the Taj Mahal Palace Hotel was among the most modern buildings in Mumbai. It was the first hotel in India to have electricity, fans, and German elevators. Its luxurious amenities, including Turkish baths and Belgian chandeliers, set it apart from other establishments of its time. The Harbour Bar, opened in 1933, holds the distinction of being Mumbai’s first licensed bar. The architecture of the Taj Mahal Palace Hotel is a blend of styles, reflecting influences from Indo-Saracenic, Islamic, Renaissance, and Victorian design traditions. The exterior of the hotel is constructed from red sandstone and grey basalt, with ornamental details. The interiors of the Taj Mahal Palace are equally impressive, featuring grand staircases, marble flooring, and opulent furnishings. The hotel has an extensive collection of art and artefacts, with paintings, sculptures, and antiques displayed throughout its halls and public spaces. Walking around the hotel it felt as opulent as the most pretentious and richest hotels I have ever visited and while I didn't have the money to stay there, you can still visit and take a walk around. Gateway to IndiaDirectly opposite the Taj Mahal Palace is the Gateway of India - the most visited landmark in India. The Gateway of India was built to commemorate the visit of King George V and Queen Mary to India in 1911. and it was finished in 1924 with the formal inauguration taking place at the end of that year. The Gateway of India is constructed from yellow basalt and reinforced concrete. It features a central arch that rises to a height of 26 metres, flanked by smaller domes and intricate latticework. The central arch is the most striking feature of the monument, framed by ornamental motifs and carved decorations. On either side of the arch, there are semi-octagonal bastions with steps leading down to the water, which were originally intended as a landing point for passengers arriving by sea. Today, boat rides to the surrounding areas leave from behind the arch. Visiting it is an intense experience. The surrounding streets are packed with people, and visitors are funneled through a small entrance and exit. I took a few steps inside and was immediately surrounded by people who were offering professional photography services to anyone they thought they could fleece. Lines to the boats at the bay behind the arch snaked their way around the monument and there was barely space to walk. The arch is fine - nothing too impressive, nothing too bad - there's certainly nicer things to see in the state, but in terms of what it represents I can understand why there is such a focus on it. Elephanta CavesBehind the arches are people selling tickets to boat trips around the surrounding area and I paid the ₹300 to get a visit to Elephanta Caves. The caves are a network of ancient rock-cut caves located on Elephanta Island in Mumbai Harbour. situated about 7 miles from the city of Mumbai. Although the distance is not so far, the small, overcrowded boats take almost an hour to make the journey over open (and polluted) water. The journey itself is nothing to remember. The caves are renowned for their stunning sculptures and intricate carvings dedicated to Hindu deities, primarily Shiva. The Elephanta Caves are a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the most significant examples of ancient Indian rock-cut architecture. The origins of the Elephanta Caves date back to between the 5th and 7th centuries CE, during the rule of the Kalachuri dynasty. However, there is some debate among historians about their exact period of construction, with some suggesting they may have been built earlier under the Maurya or Chalukya dynasties. The caves were originally Hindu temples, though some elements suggest a brief Buddhist influence during later periods. As soon as you disembark from the boat you have two options to get to the caves, a small train, or you can go by foot - which is the option I took. Monkeys are everywhere stealing food from locals and tourists, and even the cows here that roam the walkways have learned to become aggressive to get food from people, but they generally seem harmless if you stand your ground. A small, covered incline up a hill is lined with small shops selling all sorts of goods and things get a little crowded here. Once past this you reach another entrance which charges visitors depending on whether they are local or foreigners, a form or price discrimination I saw across the city. The Elephanta Caves consist of two groups: the larger Hindu caves and a smaller set of Buddhist caves. The Hindu caves are the most prominent, with five main caves containing exquisite sculptures, many of which depict scenes from Hindu mythology. These caves are carved directly into the basalt rock of the island, demonstrating remarkable craftsmanship and artistic vision. The most famous of the Hindu caves is Cave 1, also known as the Great Cave. This cave is dedicated to Shiva and features a series of elaborately carved panels depicting his various forms and stories from Hindu mythology. The centrepiece of this cave is the massive Trimurti sculpture, a three-headed depiction of Shiva that symbolises his roles as the Creator, Preserver, and Destroyer. Standing at nearly 6 metres in height, the Trimurti is one of the most iconic images. It's an impressive sight, and more so when you consider the carvings are cut directly into the rockface rather than being carved in pieces of stone and moved to their location. You could easily spend half a day or more here and it is well worth the trip. Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu SangrahalayaProbably my favourite landmark in Mumbai was the Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu Sangrahalaya, formerly known as the Prince of Wales Museum of Western India. The museum is renowned for its extensive collection of artefacts, artwork, and historical treasures that span centuries and civilisations. The museum was conceived in the early 20th century to commemorate the visit of the Prince of Wales, later King George V, to the Subcontinent in 1905. A public meeting was held in 1904 to propose the establishment of a museum that would preserve and showcase the cultural heritage of Indic civilisation and it was finally opened to the public in 1922. Like the Elephanta Caves there is price discrimination between locals and foreigners but it was pretty straight forward to get in with few queues in the middle of the day. The museum, much like the other British built architecture in the city, is beautiful to look at and it is set within a well-maintained garden that adds to its charm. The building itself is a protected heritage structure and is as much a part of the museum’s appeal as its collections. As soon as you walk in, there is a beautiful lobby area that is beautifully open and feels as much Marathi as it does British. In terms of entranceways, it is comfortably one of the most beautiful and impressive that I have seen in any museum. The museum itself has an impressive collection of over 70,000 artefacts, covering a wide range of disciplines including archaeology, art, natural history, and numismatics. The collection is divided into three main sections: Art, Archaeology, and Natural History. The Art section includes exquisite examples of Indian miniature paintings, decorative art, textiles, and jewellery covering Pahari, Rajasthani, and Mughal areas and eras. The museum also houses sculptures from various regions that now constitute the extent of Indic civilisation, including Chola bronzes and Gandhara art. The Archaeology section features artefacts from the earliest civilisations of the subcontinent all the way up to more modern nations. These include pottery, seals, and tools that provide insights into the lives of people from these eras. The collection also includes artefacts from other cultures, such as Egyptian antiquities and Chinese ceramics, reflecting the museum’s global reach. The Natural History section was where all the children and families were during my visit. It includes a diverse range of specimens, such as taxidermied animals, geological samples, and botanical exhibits. I can see why kids would love it - I felt the same way the first time I saw a natural history museum. I really enjoyed the museum and although there was very little on Panjabi history - which I guess isn't surprising as the focus here is on Marathi and Indian history - but given Panjab is part of the broader Indic Civilisation it would have been nice to see a little more. That said, no complaints, there are plenty of museums in Panjab and the UK that house Panjabi history - the Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu Sangrahalaya, for me, was fantastic and would comfortably rank among the best that I have visited in the world. Marine DriveDuring my time in Mumbai, every night I would walk or drive past the coastal road I would see reams and reams of people lined up on Marine Drive during sunset. For the first few days I sort of ignored it and explored other parts of the city, but curiosity eventually took over and I decided to pay a visit myself. Marine Drive is a roughly 2 mile-long promenade that stretches along the coast of the Arabian Sea. Known for its curved shape, resembling a necklace when lit up at night, Marine Drive has earned the nickname “The Queen’s Necklace.” It was constructed in the 1920s and 1930s as part of the Back Bay Reclamation Project, aimed at expanding and modernising South Mumbai. The Art Deco buildings lining Marine Drive were also designed during the 1930s and 1940s and represent one of the largest clusters of this architectural style outside Miami. Recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2018, these structures are known for their geometric patterns, streamlined forms, and pastel colours. The promenade itself is a wide, open stretch lined with palm trees, benches, and streetlights. I went during the day but also during sunset where it gets so busy there is barely any space to sit. You get a complete mix of people from across the Subcontinent and further. In terms of watching the sunset, there aren't too many places that I have visited that give such a nice view as you can follow the sun completely dipping under the horizon with unobstructed views. The only problem is that the pollution is so big in the sea that the whole places smells quite a bit. A city of two worldsAs I entered my second week, the stark contrasts of the city became more apparent. The clean area around the Taj Mahal Palace give way to cramped, narrow, polluted and dirty streets just a few blocks down. The climate is an unforgiving one, even in the winter, with high temperatures and high humidity making the problem of pollution even worse. People through plastic bottles and rubbish pretty much anywhere, and for some reason everyone loves to spit on the floor. Nowhere is this juxtaposition clearer than Colaba, one of the southernmost parts of Mumbai. On one side, there is the bustling Colaba Causeway, a haven for shoppers and tourists. On the other, the sprawling slums of Colaba bear testament to the socioeconomic challenges faced by a significant portion of Mumbai's population. Together, these elements create a microcosm of the complexities that define life in one of India’s most dynamic cities. The slums of Colaba, like many informal settlements in Mumbai, have grown organically over decades. These communities are a network of narrow lanes, makeshift houses constructed of corrugated iron sheets and tarpaulins, and a hive of human activity. I accidentally got lost in one for an hour and it was a type of poverty many of us are never exposed to. Food waiting to be eaten was on tables covered with flies giving off a stench like I have never smelled before. Animals were defecating next to the food and so were children. While the people here are undoubtedly resilient, something needs to change. In the UK, the early 20th century was spent clearing people out of slums and into social and council housing. I grew up in a council house and while it isn't a great experience, it's definitely better than the conditions I saw here. I cannot believe that a country that can develop nukes and send satellites to the moon cannot take the steps to improve the lives of some of the most vulnerable. Granted the challenges in Mumbai are different from London, but given some of the largest slums in the world are located in Mumbai, you'd think some more steps would be taken. The Colaba slums are home to a diverse population that includes migrants from across the country. Many come to Mumbai in search of opportunity, only to find themselves constrained by the city's lack of affordable housing. With limited resources, they build homes in these slums and work in various informal sectors such as domestic work, construction, street vending, and small-scale manufacturing. Despite their economic contributions, they face constant struggles, including poor sanitation, and a lack of clean water. A short walk from the slums lies the famous Colaba Market, which presents a stark contrast. Known officially as Colaba Causeway, this bustling commercial stretch is a sensory overload of sights, sounds, and smells. During my visit there was barely enough space to walk in certain sections of the market. The Colaba Market is also home to some of Mumbai’s most iconic bars and restaurants, some dating backing to the British rule in the city. Some of the restaurants have become world famous and prices are the same as you would find in London or New York. Many of the goods sold in Colaba Market are either sourced or crafted by artisans and workers from the nearby slums. Their contributions, often overlooked, form the backbone of the market’s success. For instance, women from the slums often engage in small-scale embroidery work, creating exquisite patterns on textiles that end up on sale in the market. I guess it reflects a broader commentary of the city. Driving along the coastal path I saw the house of the daughter of one of India's richest families. A few blocks behind her are some of the poorest neighbourhoods in the world. While India's GDP (the measure of the country's total output) grows, its GDP per capita remains low. More importantly, and a better indicator, is median wealth, and in those respects, it remains one of the poorest countries in the world. And that's a shame, because the country that I saw has incredible potential which, if they could reach, could benefit humanity. Gurdwaras in MumbaiThe Sikh population in Mumbai is tiny. To put it into context there are over 20 times as many Sikhs as a proportional of the total population in places like Wolverhampton and Leamington Spa than there are in Mumbai. I saw very few visible Sikhs during my time there, but Gurdwaras in Mumbai have been established for a long time and there are quite a few of them in the city. I was lucky enough to visit two. The first was the Bombay Gurdwara Akali Dal, a small Gurdwara located on the 7th floor of a high rise building in the middle Kalbadevi neighbourhood, one of the most intense that I visited in the city. My visit to the Gurdwara was part of a broader afternoon long walk which sounds relaxing, but in the city centre streets of Mumbai is anything but that. The Gurdwara, then, was like an oasis of peace and bliss in the hectic streets of the city. To get to the 7th floor there both a lift and a staircase, and the Gurdwara itself is very small but well kept. Despite being 7 floors from the ground, you can still hear the constant beeping of cars in the streets below. The second was the Gurdwara Guru Nanak Punjabi Sabha in Andheri East, much further north in the city - a significantly larger and more open. Despite being located on a main road, the Gurdwara is built slightly into the pavement so there is not nearly as much noise. It is close to several other Gurdwareh including the Sri Guru Nanak Darbar, and the large Guru Nanak Nagar Gurdwara. The Guru Nanak Punjabi Sabha caught my attention because it also has a charitable medical clinic as part of the Gurdwara which provides subsidized medicine to the local community - which I think goes to the very essence of Sikhi. As a Sikh in Mumbai, I didn't face too many issues. I had once instance of a comment that I understand is used as derogatory term against Sikhs in India and I immediately confronted the group of men who very quickly backed down and walked away. Otherwise, I was generally treated as normally as I would in most cities. Would I recommend visiting Mumbai?It's difficult to say. On balance, it wouldn't be at the top of my list. It reminded me in many ways of Lagos - a large, vibrant, youthful, and energetic city that draws people from across the broader country hoping for a better life, but many that are then trapped in a cycle of poverty and exploitation. While the city is energetic there just isn't a whole lot to see here, and most of the major landmarks are British constructed buildings, although the blend of local Marathi styles are very nice to see. Mumbai isn't really a tourist city and in the collection of people that constitute India, there are perhaps better alternatives, particularly in the south. Comments are closed.
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AuthorBritish Sikh, born in the Midlands, based in London, travelling the world seeing new cultures. Categories
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