Monaco

Summary

Airport Rating n/a
Reception of locals ****
Cost: £££££

• The original millionaire's playground and one of the smallest, densely populated, and richest countries in the world
• No airport, limited public transportation, and limited taxi hailing applications
• Incredible beauty and history, and no issues as a Sikh walking around the city
• Main Sights: Prince's Palace, Port Hercule, Stade Louis II, Casino de Monte Carlo, Cathedrale-Notre-Dame-Immacule, Hairpin Curve

One of the smallest countries in the world

Over the last couple of decades, places like Dubai (which you can read about here) and Singapore (which you can read about here) have grown to be associated with wealth and are commonly known as the playground of billionaires. But growing up, if there was one place that was associated with wealth, no taxes, and multimillionaires, it was definitely Monaco.

From my council house upbringing, Monaco was as far for someone like me as another planet is for the average person - Monaco might as well have been Mars. And while the world is changing and power and wealth is shifting east, Monaco remains associated with wealth in a way few other places on the planet are.

Monaco is the second smallest country in the world, covering just 2.1 square kilometres, but with 40,000 residents in such a small state, it is also the most densely populated country in the world.  Interestingly, only about 9,000 of these residents are actually Monegasque (citizens of Monaco). The rest are immigrants, with large communities of French, Italian, British, Swiss, and Russian nationals. 

It has the one of the highest GDP per capita rates in the world and one of the lowest unemployment rates. The people who live in Monaco are among the richest in the world and owning property in Monaco is prohibitively expensive, with prices per square metre as high as they come.

Monaco was originally occupied by the Ligures, an ancient people of the region, before the Greeks and Romans established trading posts there. However, Monaco's modern history really begins in 1297, when Francois Grimaldi seized control of the fortress overlooking the harbour that had been built by the Genoese. This was the beginning of the Grimaldi dynasty, which has ruled Monaco for over 700 years other than a few interruptions. The Grimaldis aligned themselves with more powerful neighbours to maintain control, at various times being under the protection of Spain, Sardinia, and then France.

Monaco’s modern identity was formed in the 19th and 20th centuries. In 1861, Prince Charles III formally renounced Monaco's claims to certain French territories in exchange for financial compensation and recognition of its sovereignty. This agreement laid the foundation for Monaco's close relationship with France, which continues to this day.

The biggest change came in the late 19th century with the establishment of the Monte Carlo Casino. Faced with financial difficulties, the Grimaldi rulers decided to develop a gambling industry, and Monte Carlo quickly became a playground for Europe’s elite - a little bit like what Macau is to China. The railway connection to France in 1868 boosted tourism and created Monaco’s status as a glamorous destination. It was the right place, at the right time.

Monaco remained officially neutral during both World Wars but was occupied by Italian and later German forces during the Second World War. Following the war, Prince Rainier III modernised the country and his marriage to American actress Grace Kelly in 1956 elevated Monaco’s international profile, bringing a new level of glamour to it.

One of the key factors in Monaco’s modern appeal is its tax status. There is no income tax for its residents, and given its location on the coast of the Mediterranean it has become one of the most desirable places for rich people to live. The country is full of superyachts, luxury cars, and private jets, although given the narrow streets, there is also a disproportionate amount of small Smart Cars that I saw everywhere.

Despite its independence, Monaco is very much connected with France. The country relies on France for military defence and has a customs union with it, meaning that Monaco effectively shares France’s trade policies. The euro is the official currency, even though Monaco is not a member of the European Union. Instead, it maintains a special relationship with the EU, which allows it to participate in certain economic and legal frameworks while retaining control over its own governance.

One thing to remember is that Monaco doesn't have its own airport, so I made my way from Nice. There is a cheap and reliable train connection that takes about 20 minutes, going right next to the coastline and some of the best scenery you might find anywhere in the world. Taxis are also strange. Officially there is no Uber, although there is a local taxi company that seemed to me to be unreliable and expensive. However, the moment you step out of the border of Monaco into France, Uber starts working again. So, on a few occasions where I really needed a taxi, I would just make my way to the nearest border (which is never too far) and catch an Uber that would drop me wherever I needed. A very weird situation!

F1 Monaco Grand Prix

If there is one thing that I personally associate with Monaco, it is the Formula 1 Grand Prix. I was a huge F1 fan growing up as it used to air on the weekends on free-to-view TV which meant that during my childhood I made connections with the drivers and the cars from my living room. While I'd follow the whole season, the Monaco Grand Prix was - back then - the most visually striking. While there are a lot of street races today, back then, it was a bit of a novelty. 

The Monaco Grand Prix is still the crown jewel of Formula 1 season. Held on the tight, winding streets of the Monte Carlo neighbourhood of Monaco, overtaking is tough, and the race is sometimes criticised for being nothing more than a vanity parade, and while motorcar races have been held here since 1929, there are definitely some people that think the track isn't suitable for modern race cars - but it still feels special to me.

Growing up, I had memorised pretty much the whole circuit, so to see it in real life was a dream come true. One of the most iconic sections of the Monaco Grand Prix is the Fairmont Hairpin. It's the slowest corner in Formula 1, taken at just 30-40 mph. The hairpin is a near 180-degree turn, requiring drivers to turn the wheel almost to full lock, which has led to some iconic images over the years. Standing over the hairpin and seeing the view the camera usually shows on TV was a special moment.

Another legendary part of the Monaco Grand Prix is the tunnel, one of the most famous features of any F1 circuit. It is the fastest section of the track, where cars accelerate to over 170 mph before emerging into blinding daylight. The transition from darkness to light makes it one of the most visually striking moments of the race and again it was fantastic to see hidden just behind and below the hairpin.

​The race also goes past one of Monaco's most famous landmarks, the Monte Carlo Casino, which for over a century has been synonymous with wealth, luxury, and excess. I saw the casino from the outside but didn't fancy paying the cover charge to go inside - and nor would I have been able to in my football top.

Port Hercule

The track then leads towards another instantly recognisable area: the waterfront section of Port Hercule in front of the Monaco marina. This part of the circuit is possibly the most picturesque in all of Formula 1 as drivers race past a backdrop of superyachts. For me, this became twice as special as I managed to see (and get a photo with) a legend of my local football team, Aston Villa, during my walk past the Marina.

The port has been in use since ancient times, with records showing that the Greeks and Romans used the natural harbour for trade and shelter. The name "Port Hercule" is derived from the legend that the Greek hero Hercules passed through the area during his mythical travels. However, for much of its history, Monaco’s coastline was relatively underdeveloped, and the port was little more than a modest harbour used by fishermen and small traders.

As Monaco established itself as a hub for the wealthy, the port became a natural focal point. It underwent significant construction and expansion from the late 19th century onward until it had become one of the most prestigious marinas in the world, attracting some of the largest and most extravagant vessels ever built.

Despite the wealth, it's open for anyone to walk through and I saw some extraordinary boats - some boats were the size of buildings, and the largest looked like skyscrapers. The Yacht Club de Monaco, founded in 1953 and currently presided over by Prince Albert II, plays a major role in the yachting world and organises prestigious sailing events, including the Monaco Classic Week and so the port remains a centrepoint for the country.

For me, other than seeing a childhood hero, the Port Hercule area was just a nice walk in sunny weather and picturesque surroundings with hills on one side, and the coast on the other. The hills are particularly striking and it'll be one of the first things you notice when you come into Monaco (it definitely was for me). They surround and pass through the country so there is a lot of walking up and down hills, as well as lifts, and the types of outside elevators that I saw in the mid-levels area of Hong Kong (which you can read about here).

Changing of the Guard at the Prince's Palace

​Monaco’s Old Town, known as Monaco-Ville, is the complete opposite of the glitzier feel of Monte Carlo. The Old Town sits on a rocky hill called Le Rocher and is basically the historic heart of Monaco where the country first began. Like many old towns in Continental Europe, it is a maze of narrow, winding streets lined with pastel-coloured buildings, traditional shuttered windows, and small family-run shops. 

At the centre of Monaco-Ville is the Prince’s Palace, the official residence of the ruling Grimaldi family. I say palace, because it is basically a fortress that dates back to the 13th century, when it was originally built as a Genoese stronghold. The Grimaldis seized it in 1297, and since then, it has remained the seat of Monaco’s monarchy. Over the centuries, it has evolved from a medieval fortress into a lavish palace, with each ruler adding their own touches. 

I didn't go inside but I did make it for the Changing of the Guard Ceremony that happens every day 11:55am. At this time, the Carabiniers du Prince, the principality’s elite guards, perform a ritual changeover outside the palace gates. Dressed in their distinctive black-and-white uniforms, they march in precise formation, with a formal handing-over of duties. Having seen similar rituals in the UK, it was nice to compare the two - this is a smaller ceremony, but you can get really close to the guards - in fact they walk right past you. And while there were tourists (including a group of Americans whose vocal range was between loud and super loud), it didn't feel overly crowded while I was there - although granted it was during off-season

Monaco-Ville

Another key landmark in Monaco-Ville is the Cathédrale Notre-Dame-Immaculée, more commonly known as Monaco Cathedral. It was built in the late 19th century on the site of a much older church but today has a brilliant white stone façade, sourced from nearby cliffs. The cathedral is most famous for being the final resting place of Monaco’s princes and princesses, including Prince Rainier III and his wife, the beloved Princess Grace, but it's a beautiful building to see regardless.

Beyond the palace and the cathedral, Monaco’s Old Town is full of smaller shops, restaurants, and residences, all built on narrow cobblestoned streets with shutters and balconies. There are historic chapels (like the Chapel of Mercy) and little squares (like Place Saint Nicolas and Place de la Mairie). I'm usually a fan of old towns, and while this wasn't quite as big and beautiful as the one in Naples, I still thought it was amazing.

One thing that makes it different to many other old towns are the views from different parts of the neighbourhood. Remember, it's built on a rocky hill so you have coastal panoramas of places like Port Hercules, or you can look out toward the Italian coast. In that respect, it feels pretty unique among the old towns that I have been too. In fact, in terms of views, I'd put this up there with Casco Viejo - the old town in Panama City. Monaco-Ville is small enough that you can see it all without too much trouble, but large enough that you can get lost in the maze of the streets for a few hours so strikes a happy balance.

Stade Louis II

​The main reason I went to Monaco was to see my local team. Aston Villa, play a Champions League game against Monaco - the national side that plays in the French league and has produced some of the best teams and players in the history of the game. After all, who wouldn't want to play for a club where taxes are so low and the living arrangements so luxurious. It's why this tiny country has produced a club that has at times dominated the French league and also reached the final of continental competitions like the Champions League.

They play at Stade Louis II - one of the most iconic venues in European football. Growing up, the stadium for me was one of my personal wonders of the footballing world. For nearly two decades, Stade Louis II was home to the UEFA European Super Cup, the annual match between the winners of the Champions League and the Europa League (formerly the UEFA Cup Winners’ Cup and UEFA Cup). From 1998 to 2012, the match was held in Monaco, and for me seeing the stadium, its art deco design, huge arches - honestly, as a youngster - it filled me with a sense of awe.

I've been lucky enough to see some of the best stadiums in Europe, and while I wouldn't list this among the best, it is comfortably one of the most iconic. With its distinctive architecture, including the instantly recognisable nine arches towering over one end, Stade Louis II - if nothing else - truly memorable.

It was built in 1939 - closer to the centre of Monaco - and served as the home ground for AS Monaco, which was founded in 1924. Over the years, as the club grew in stature and Monaco itself underwent urban expansion, it became clear that the old stadium was no longer sufficient. With limited space for renovation and the growing demands of professional football, the decision was made to construct a new stadium in a more suitable location.

In the early 1980s, the new Stade Louis II was rebuilt on reclaimed land in Fontvieille, a district that didn't exist before the mid-20th century. It was completed in 1985 and designed with Monaco’s limited space in mind, the stadium is built above an underground car park, offices, and even educational facilities. The stadium and the club have hosted famous players like Thierry Henry, David Trezeguet, and Kylian Mbappe.

It's a small stadium, after all it only has a capacity of around 18,500 but that is almost half of the population of Monaco. Unlike many football-specific stadiums, Stade Louis II was also designed to accommodate athletics, featuring an Olympic-sized track that surrounds the pitch. And while this makes sense for a country with little space to have different stadiums for different sports, it does reduce the atmosphere for football games considering the seats are so far from the pitch given the need for an athletics track. The stadium - particularly the concourses - also seem a little run down. The stadium is definitely showing its age.

As for my gameday experience, it was broadly positive - although the game was poor, and the result didn't go my way. There were no issues getting in. A few metal detectors but that was it. You have home and away stands, as well as a stand for neutrals. After watching so many Premier League games, the biggest adjustment for me was just getting used to how far away the pitch felt and how the atmosphere seemed to escape the stadium as it is so open. That being said, seeing the iconic arches, and the rocky hill of La Rocher in the background was an experience that I'll never forget.

Would I recommend visiting Monaco?

Monaco is an interesting place and I'm possibly biased because I grew up watching the F1 Monaco Grand Prix, and the European Super Cup each football season. For someone who hates billionaires, tax dodgers, and the flaunting of excessive wealth, Monaco wasn't so bad. In fact, I kind of liked it. 

Let me explain. Strip away the excess - you still have a whole country that you can walk around in one day if you wanted, with the sea on one side, and rugged hills on the other. A country that has a beautiful and understated old town. A country that despite its size hosts world famous events. 

As a Sikh I didn't face any issues at all. Not having an airport helps but even going around the country I never felt any sense of discomfort or awkwardness. It's not cheap, but you probably figured that out already, and I wouldn't recommend spending more than a couple days. I stayed outside Monaco to save a bit of money and commuted inside the territory each day. But if you're on the south coast of France, a trip to Monaco is an absolute must.