Ho Chi Minh City: Part II

Summary

Airport Rating ***
Reception of locals *****
Cost: £££

• My second trip to Ho Chi Minh City, almost nine years after my first
• The city feels a lot busier than my last visit, but that's not necessarily a bad thing
• No issues as a Sikh in airports or in the city
• Main Sights: Cu Chi Tunnels, Independence Palace, Ben Thanh Market, Central Post Office, Ba Thien Hau Temple, Book Street, Landmark 81, Tan Dinh Church, Cafe Apartments, Bui Vien Walking Street

Another trip to Saigon

This was my second visit to ​Ho Chi Minh City, and my first in nine years. There were a fair few things I did in my first visit, including some of the big tourist sites like the War Remnants Museum that I won't cover in this post, but you can read about it here.

Ho Chi Minh was formerly known as Saigon and it is the largest city in Vietnam. It was originally a small fishing village called Prey Nokor and part of the Khmer Empire before becoming Vietnamese territory in the late 17th century. During the colonial era, it was captured by the French in 1859 and renamed Saigon, becoming the capital of the French colony of Cochinchina. Under French rule, Saigon went through a fair amount of urban development, transforming into a modern city with wide boulevards, colonial architecture, and a thriving economy based on rice, rubber, and other exports.

The city's most tumultuous period came during the 20th century during wars against the Japanese, the French, the North Vietnamese, and for a brief moment, the Americans. Saigon was the capital of South Vietnam and a focal point of conflict between the communist North and the anti-communist South, backed by the United States. The defeat of the Americans by North Vietnamese forces on 30 April 1975 marked the end of the war and the beginning of reunification under communist rule. Following the war, the city was renamed Ho Chi Minh City in honour of the revolutionary leader, although it is still commonly (even in Vietnam) known as Saigon.

Today, Ho Chi Minh City has a population of over 9 million people, making it the most populous city in Vietnam and similar in size to London and New York. This includes a mix of ethnic Vietnamese, Chinese, and a growing immigrant community, particularly immigrants from the US, Western Europe, and Australia. 

Economically, Ho Chi Minh City is the driving engine of Vietnam, contributing significantly to the national GDP. The city's skyline has modern skyscrapers (many more than my first visit), such as the iconic Bitexco Financial Tower and the Landmark 81, and it's also home to Vietnam's largest stock exchange.

Despite its rapid development, Ho Chi Minh City still has a lot of history. The French colonial architecture is still evident in landmarks like the Notre-Dame Cathedral Basilica of Saigon and the Saigon Central Post Office. The city's streets are a blend of the old and new, where traditional markets like Ben Thanh coexist with high-end shopping malls and chic boutiques. The general vibe of Ho Chi Minh City is one of energetic hustle and bustle - it's a young city. The streets are teeming with motorcycles, street vendors are everywhere selling Vietnamese street food, from pho to banh mi, and the nightlife is among the best in south-east Asia.

For all the good, there are also challenges like traffic congestion (it's bad), air pollution (it's really bad), and income inequality (which is very visible). Efforts are being made to improve public transport, enhance green spaces, and ensure sustainable development but it will be a long road.

Cu Chi Tunnels

One of the things that I missed out on last time were the Cu Chi Tunnels, and my second visit provided me with a fantastic opportunity to finally see one of Ho Chi Minh's most famous attractions.

I say Ho Chi Minh, because technically the tunnels are in the city boundary but they are located about 70 kilometers northwest of the city centre. I took a shared coach which took just over two hours to get there, including a tourist trap stop half way there to "take a rest" but in reality it was to try and get us to buy something from a large factory on the outskirts of town. Whatever. People need to get paid so I can't be too mad.

The Cu Chi Tunnels are a huge underground network and one of the most iconic symbols of the Vietnam War. These tunnels played a pivotal role in the strategies of the Viet Cong (North Vietnamese soldiers) during the conflict and showed the resilience and ingenuity of the Vietnamese fighters.

The history of the Cu Chi Tunnels dates back to the late 1940s during the First Indochina War against French colonial forces. Initially, the tunnels were rudimentary and served primarily as hideouts and storage facilities. However, their significance grew exponentially during the Vietnam War against the United States. By the 1960s, the tunnels had evolved into a sophisticated subterranean network that included living quarters, kitchens, hospitals, command centers, and storage areas for weapons and supplies. The tunnels were designed to include air filtration systems to counteract American chemical warfare tactics.

The Cu Chi Tunnels provided the Viet Cong with a tactical advantage, allowing them to launch surprise attacks and then disappear underground, evading American forces. The tunnels also facilitated communication and coordination among the guerrilla fighters, enabling them to sustain their resistance despite superior American firepower and technology. The tunnels' strategic significance was a major factor in the eventual withdrawal of American forces and the reunification of Vietnam under communist control. Similar to the Afghans fighting from their mountains, or the Sikhs from their jungles, it's a great example of how to use home terrain to your advantage.

The tunnels have been turned into a tourist attraction and they offer a unique, albeit somewhat sanitised, perspective on the war. You enter in a relatively modern looking entrance, before seeing a short film on the Vietnam War, coupled with emotive language that I am sure leaves some American tourists a little more than offended (to be fair, that's small punishment for the atrocities committed during the war). You can do some little tourist things like jumping in manhole covers, and you can even crawl in the tunnels. I had a go and it was a very tight experience, but one that brings to light the things the Vietnamese had to go through to fight against the Americans. There were plenty of tourists that decided to skip it, some without looking, and hilariously, some that would take a look and turn right around. I must admit, it can be a little claustrophobic, but it's doable.

The complex also includes a shooting range where you can fire weapons used during the war, such as the AK-47 and M16 rifles. I tried my hand at firing the AK-47 which had a shorter queue, and it was quite an experience. 

You need to take half a day to visit the tunnels, minimum, so it is a rather long activity if you are short of time (as I was on my first trip). But if you have the time, it's well worth the effort of going there and checking out an important part of Vietnamese history.

Independence Palace

While I visited the War Remnants Museum during my first visit, this visit gave me the opportunity to see the Independence Palace, also known as the Reunification Palace, a colonial era building constructed when Vietnam was under French rule. Originally, the site housed the Norodom Palace, named after King Norodom of Cambodia. This palace was constructed in 1868 to serve as the residence and working place for the Governor-General of French Indochina. However, the Norodom Palace was heavily damaged during the First Indochina War between France and Vietnam.

In 1954, following the Geneva Accords and the subsequent departure of the French, the palace was handed over to the newly established State of Vietnam under President Ngo Dinh Diem. Diem ordered the demolition of the Norodom Palace in 1962, after a failed coup attempt left the building significantly damaged. In its place, he commissioned the construction of a new palace, the current Independence Palace. The new palace was completed in 1966, and it became the residence and workplace of the President of South Vietnam.

The Independence Palace holds tremendous historical significance, particularly as a symbol of the end of the Vietnam War. On April 30, 1975, a North Vietnamese tank famously crashed through its gates, marking the fall of Saigon and the official reunification of Vietnam under communist control. This event effectively ended the war, and the palace was subsequently renamed the Reunification Palace. 

Architecturally, the Independence Palace is a striking example of 1960s design, reflecting both modernist and traditional Vietnamese elements. If you've read my articles before, you know that I am not a fan of 1960s style buildings, and I'll be honest, this isn't a nice building to look out. The building is laid out in the shape of the Chinese character for "good fortune," with spacious rooms, grand halls, and well-manicured gardens and includes 95 rooms, each decorated according to its intended function. Notable rooms include the Banquet Hall, the Cabinet Room, and the Presidential Office.

I visited during the searing heat of summer, so tried to get inside as quick as possible, but to be honest it wasn't a whole lot cooler on the inside either. The interior of the palace is very well preserved, and you can see many of the rooms that the President and his wife used to host foreign guests, dignitaries, and their own living quarters. The basement is particularly fascinating, featuring a network of tunnels, a telecommunications centre, a war room, and a projection room. These underground facilities were designed to protect the occupants during bombings and to allow the South Vietnamese government to continue operating during wartime. On the roof, there is a helicopter on the helipad which would have allowed for a quick escape where necessary.

The cost of entrance to the Independence Palace is relatively modest. When I visited the entrance fee for foreign tourists was around 40,000 VND (approximately £1.30). This fee includes access to the main building, the basement, and the surrounding gardens, without a guide.

Apart from its historical and architectural allure, the Independence Palace also hosts various exhibitions and events. These exhibitions often focus on the Vietnam War, the history of the palace, and Vietnam's journey towards reunification and development. It's not the nicest building to look at, but there is a lot of important history in the palace, and if you get a chance, it is worth a visit.

Temples and Churches

Ho Chi Minh also has famous temples from Buddhist and Chinese religions to Christianity including the famous Notre Dame Cathedral.

I visited one temple on this trip from eastern religions, and one from the west. The ​Ba Thien Hau Temple, also known as Chua Ba Thien Hau, is dedicated to the Chinese sea goddess Mazu. Located in the bustling Chinatown district of Cholon, the temple is one of the oldest and most revered spiritual landmarks in the city.

The Ba Thien Hau Temple was built in 1760 by Chinese immigrants from the Fujian province, who settled in Saigon and sought to create a place of worship to honour Mazu, the protector of seafarers. 

The temple complex is relatively modest in size, with a main hall and several smaller side rooms. The entrance is marked by an ornate gate, leading to a courtyard filled with intricate statues and offerings. The roof is adorned with beautifully crafted figurines of dragons, phoenixes, and other mythological creatures, symbolising prosperity and protection.

Inside, the temple is pretty cool. The air is thick with the scent of burning incense, and the walls are covered with elaborate murals and altars dedicated to various deities. In fact, it was probably the most "smokey" temple that I have ever visited. The central altar is dedicated to Mazu, flanked by her guardian generals.

It's insane how quiet and peaceful the inside of the temple is because it sits on a main road that is filled with cars, street vendors, and people going about their day. It made a pretty nice change.

Then there is the Pink Church, officially known as Tan Dinh Church, a Roman Catholic church, located in District 3. The church is renowned for its distinctive pink facade and neo-Romanesque architecture. Now, it is pretty obvious why it is called the Pink Church, but I wasn't prepared for just how pink it was. We are talking seriously levels of Barbie pink here, it really stands out and is one of the most unique exteriors I have ever seen.

Tan Dinh Church was constructed between 1870 and 1876 during the French colonial period, making it one of the oldest churches in the city, but the pink was added in the mid-20th century. It was built to serve the growing Catholic community in Saigon, which included both French colonialists and local converts. The church was dedicated to the Sacred Heart of Jesus and has since played a central role in the spiritual life of the city's Catholic population.

Unfortunately, during my visit I wasn't able to go inside, but it didn't stop me (and many others) admiring the incredible pinkness of the church. It's one of those things you really need to see.

Creative Cafes

​One of the things I really like about Ho Chi Minh City is its youthful and creative energy. There is a vibrancy in this city that is starting to get lost in stuffy western capitals. One of my favourite expressions of this creativity was the Café Apartments, one of the most intriguing and innovative uses of urban space in Vietnam. This unique establishment is a former residential building transformed into a bustling hub of cafes, boutiques, and creative spaces.

Originally, the building was a typical residential apartment block, housing numerous families in the heart of Ho Chi Minh City. Over time, as the city evolved and modernised, the demand for new and creative uses of urban space grew. In recent years, the concept of repurposing old residential buildings into commercial spaces has gained popularity worldwide, and the Café Apartments is an example of this trend - I mean it is in a prime location. By converting the apartments into individual cafes, boutiques, and workspaces, the building has been revitalised. 

It looks pretty intense when you see it from the outside, but it's relatively calm once you step in. There is a lift you can take to each floor, but you have to pay some money to use it (some cafes on the top floors will refund you this fee). I decided to take the stairs and explore the different floors. Each floor of the building is home to various cafes and shops, each with its own distinct style and atmosphere. Some cafes feature minimalist decor with clean lines and natural light, while others embrace a more eclectic, bohemian vibe with colourful furnishings and artistic touches.

The building comprises of nine floors in total with several units on each floor. Many of the cafes offer stunning views of Nguyen Hue Walking Street and the surrounding cityscape, and I stopped off at a couple and enjoyed the tea and the views.

I really like this building and enjoyed my whole experience there. It was a perfect example of the city's creativity and energy, and it's one of the reasons why I rate Ho Chi Minh so highly.

Rooftops

Another example of this energy are the rooftops - and there is no shortage of rooftops. Now heads up, many of these rooftops are bars, and given the alcoholism in our community this is not something I often write about or promote. It's easy for me to say you can go in and not drink, or have a non-alcoholic drink, but often it is better to avoid bars altogether. That being said, for the views and the vibes, I visited, and for me it is easy to have a juice and relax if I want.

I visited 5 or 6 different rooftops and definitely had some favourites. Vo Roof is one of them, located in District 1, it offers a laid-back rooftop experience. This rooftop is situated atop a traditional Vietnamese building, providing a unique contrast to the more modern and upscale venues in the city.

The décor at Vo Roof is rustic and cosy, with wooden furniture, fairy lights, and plenty of greenery that create a warm and inviting atmosphere. The rooftop offers nice views of the surrounding neighbourhood, including the nearby Ben Thanh Market and the Saigon Skydeck. It does very nice food at reasonable prices and was one of my favourite expriences.

Le Café des Stagiaires, located in District 1, was another favourite. The name, which translates to "The Interns' Café," reflects its origins in Shanghai, where it was a favourite among interns and young professionals. In Ho Chi Minh City, it continues to attract a youthful crowd, offering a laid-back yet trendy environment.

The bar is situated on the top floor of a colonial-era building, and the décor is eclectic, featuring mismatched furniture, colourful murals, and plenty of greenery, creating a cosy and inviting space. The rooftop offers stunning views of the Saigon River and the bustling streets below, making it an ideal spot for a relaxing evening - although being next to river - there is a bit of a funky smell.

Zion Sky Lounge, on the 14th floor of the Rosa Hotel & Spa in District 1, has a more in your face, bright neon lights style that is a little more expensive and a little more polished. There is a spacious open-air terrace with seating (which breaks easily, I speak from experience), and a loud sound system depending on when you come. The views are brilliant, you don't get a 360, but you can certainly see the city skyline from a unique perspective.

Perhaps my favourite view was from the Twilight Sky Bar. The bar is situated in the heart of District 1 on top of a hotel, and honestly, you feel like you surrounded by the city skyline. The outdoor terrace offers unobstructed views of the city, to the extent that I could have easily spent the whole evening here, and if I were to return, this would be the first place I'd come back to from this list.

The most famous rooftop in the city, undoubtedly is Blank Lounge, located on the 75th and 76th floors of Landmark 81, the tallest building in Vietnam. Blank Lounge provides 360-degree views of Ho Chi Minh City and beyond, making it one of the highest rooftop bars in Southeast Asia. It isn't cheap, whatever drink you have will cost a lot but there isn't a point in the city where you can see more.

The interior of the building is proper luxurious and there is nothing laid back about this place - it's up to you to decide whether that is a kind of vibe you enjoy or dislike. There is an outdoor terrace that juts out from the building, while from the inside - and especially at night - there is a glare from the lights that obscures the views slightly. The reason this doesn't top my list is because after a certain height you lose all perspective of the skyline as everything looks small, and that's certainly the outcome here.

Culture

​I'd visited the Central Post Office during my first trip but that was during a big rainstorm so I popped back again during this visit - after all it is one of the most iconic landmarks in Vietnam. The post office is near the Notre-Dame Cathedral Basilica of Saigon, and like the cathedral is a nod to the French influence that you can find throughout the city.

Construction began in 1886 and was completed in 1891 and the building was designed by Gustave Eiffel, who is also famous for designing the Eiffel Tower in Paris and the Statue of Liberty in New York. The Central Post Office was built to serve as the main postal hub for Saigon, facilitating communication and correspondence during a time when the city was rapidly developing under French rule.

Architecturally, it is a stunning example of French colonial design, blending European and Asian elements to create something special. The exterior of the building features a grand facade with arched windows, and nice detailing, while the interior has high vaulted ceilings, marble floors, and beautifully designed counters. The building's design not only showcases the architectural prowess of its time but also stands as a symbol of the city's historical and cultural identity.

The Central Post Office is quite big, covering an extensive area with its main hall and side rooms. The main hall is particularly impressive, with its vast open space, high ceiling, and numerous counters where visitors can purchase stamps, send letters, and buy souvenirs. You also have huge portrait of Ho Chi Minh. The hall is adorned with large maps of South Vietnam and Saigon, offering a glimpse into the city's past geography. The building also houses a small museum that displays historical artifacts related to the postal service and the history of communication in Vietnam. During my visit there were a shedload of "Emily's in Paris" writing postcards back home.

Next to the Central Post Office is Book Street, officially known as Nguyen Van Binh Book Street. It was established in 2016 as part of the city's efforts to promote reading culture and create a community space for book enthusiasts. The street stretches for about 100 metres, lined with bookstores, cafes, and kiosks selling a wide variety of books, from Vietnamese literature to international bestsellers. The initiative was supported by the local government and various publishing houses, aiming to foster a love for reading among the city's residents and visitors.

The size of Book Street is modest, but its impact is significant. The street is beautifully designed, with shady trees, benches, and decorative elements that create a pleasant and inviting atmosphere. Each bookstore and kiosk is uniquely decorated, adding to the street's charm and character. Many of the shops also sell stationery, gifts, and souvenirs, making it a perfect spot for finding unique items. I liked it the relatively understated nature of it.

The opposite of understated is ​Walking Street, officially known as Nguyen Hue Walking Street, an absolute assault of senses. It felt a lot like Soi Cowboy in Thailand (which you can read about here).

In 2015, the street was officially converted into a pedestrian-only zone, enhancing its appeal as a public space for recreation and social interaction. This transformation was part of a broader initiative by the local government to create more pedestrian-friendly areas in the city and reduce traffic congestion.

The street is open 24/7, but it is particularly lively during the evenings and weekends when locals and tourists pack this place out. You have workers trying to get you into their bars or restaurants, sometimes physically trying to drag you inside. The whole area and surrounding streets are filled with... questionable businesses, and while it is worth seeing once, it wasn't a part of the city I enjoyed.

Would I recommend visiting Ho Chi Minh City?

This remains one of my favourite cities in the world to visit. There aren't a ton of landmarks or attractions to see, but this is one place I could definitely live. There is a lot to like about it. It is young, energetic, creative, and vibrant and I think the beauty of this city beyond attractions - it is the feeling. On this occasion I noticed just how many Indian tourists there are and the new shops and restaurants that cater for them. It's great to see countries from the subcontinent expanding their horizons, and I hope in time we will also see more tourists from places like Bangladesh, Panjab, and Pakistan. 

You won't find many Sikhs in the city, and unlike nearby Bangkok or Singapore which has a multitude of Gurdwaras (that I have written about here (Thailand), and here (Singapore)) you will not find any in Ho Chi Minh. That being said, I experienced no issues at all either in the airport, or walking around the city.