Ha Long Bay, Vietnam

Summary

Airport Rating N/A
Reception of locals *****
Cost: ££££

• A UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the seven wonders of the natural world
• Bay with over a thousand islets creating unique panoramas 
• Home to about 1500 residents that make their homes on the islets
• Main Sights: Ha Long Bay, Cat Ba Island, Bay Tu Long Bay

​Hanoi - Ha Long

When I first visited Hanoi 10 years ago, I considered making a trip to Ha Long Bay. I wish I had. I wish had seen the Bay before overtourism created the environmental issues that it is trying to tackle today. On my second trip to Hanoi, I decided to visit Ninh Binh (which you can read about here) which is often described as the inland Ha Long Bay, but of course, it isn't Ha Long Bay.

With that said, I am glad that on my fourth trip to Hanoi, I finally managed to see one of the wonders of the natural world. I spent a couple of weeks in Hanoi, but after four trips, I spent most of the time revisiting places that I had enjoyed and exploring a handful of new neighbourhoods.

Ha Long Bay is a bit of mission from Hanoi. I got a minibus from the old town which left at 8am, and it took almost three hours to get to Ha Long City, and then after 30 minutes of waiting around, it took another 30 minutes or so on a speedboat to get to the designated boat that was waiting to take me on an overnight journey throughout the bay.

To be fair, the journey wasn't so bad. There was a break halfway through (although no breaks on the return journey) and while there is no way to make time go faster, the comfort in the minibus was good with enough space and air conditioning. The speedboat was windy and a little bumpy but good fun and a great introduction to Ha Long Bay.

A Natural Wonder

Ha Long Bay is located in Quảng Ninh Province in north-eastern Vietnam, and it is one of the most striking coastal landscapes in Southeast Asia. Arriving there on a minibus and being transferred first to a speed boat that darted across the water and between rocks and islets provided a great first impression to one of the most famous natural wonders in the world. 

Ha Long Bay has been occupied by human communities for thousands of years. Archaeological findings indicate that prehistoric cultures such as the Soi Nhụ, Hạ Long, and Cái Bèo peoples lived in the area as early as 18,000 years ago. These early engaged in fishing, sea foraging, and rudimentary forms of maritime trade. Pottery fragments, tools, and burial sites discovered in various parts of the bay suggest a settled, though mobile, way of life centred on the sea.

The name "Ha Long" itself means "Descending Dragon", and is rooted in legend. According to one popular tale, dragons were sent by the gods to help the Vietnamese defend their land from invaders. The dragons spat out jade and jewels which formed the islands and islets of the bay, creating a natural fortress against enemy ships. Of course, the story is just a myth, but it adds to the mystique of the region.

In modern times, Ha Long Bay has gained international recognition for its natural beauty and geological importance. It was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1994, with an extension in 2000 to include a broader range of geological features. Conservation efforts are ongoing, although the bay faces environmental pressures from increasing tourism, maritime traffic, and nearby industrial development.

It gets its beauty through a lucky location and the effects of geological processes. Ha Long Bay is part of a larger limestone karst region that stretches through neighbouring areas such as Bái Tử Long Bay and the Cát Bà archipelago. The region is composed primarily of thick deposits of calcium carbonate that were formed during the late Palaeozoic era, roughly 340 million years ago.

Over thousands of years, the combination of tectonic uplift and tropical climate contributed to the development of the distinctive karst landscape. Rainwater, which becomes mildly acidic when mixed with carbon dioxide, gradually dissolved the limestone, creating an intricate system of caves, sinkholes, and towers. This process, known as karstification, has given rise to nearly 2000 islands and islets in Ha Long Bay, many of which are uninhabited and untouched by human development.

It's hard to describe these islets. They are like huge structures, covered in green, climbing out from underneath the water and creating a landscape that looks like it could be from an Avatar film. The bay itself was submerged due to sea-level rise following the last ice age, giving the appearance of islands scattered across open water. Some islands house caves with impressive stalactites and stalagmites, such as the Sung Sot (Surprise) Cave and Thien Cung (Heavenly Palace) Cave. These natural formations continue to evolve with time, shaped by ongoing weathering and erosion.

Of the near 2000 islands in Hạ Long, only about 40 are inhabited with just over 1500 inhabitants in total with the government actively trying to resettle these people on the mainland. These islands range from tens to thousands of hectares in size, mainly in the East and Southeast of Hạ Long Bay. In recent decades, thousands of villagers have been starting to settle down on the pristine islands and build new communities such as Sa Tô Island (Hạ Long City) and Thắng Lợi Island (Vân Đồn district)

​Residents of the bay mostly live on boats and rafts buoyed by tires and plastic jugs to facilitate the fishing, cultivating and breeding of aquatic and marine species. During my trip, locals would use small motorized rafts and boats to get closer to the larger tourist ships approaching each window and selling snacks and alcohol.

In the Bay

The boat that I boarded was far beyond what I had expected - but I'm not really someone that has been on many overnight cruises so anything would have been a surprise. That being said, the boat was clean, with modern features, and a fantastic crew. 

As soon as I entered the boat, there was a short health and safety brief before everyone was able to check into their cabins. Mine was amazing. A well proportioned bedroom led to a clean and modern bathroom with a bathtub overlooking the bay. Outside, a private balcony allowed me to outside while still having some degree or privacy. Large floor to ceiling windows meant that views outside of the bay were extraordinary, almost otherworldly. 

There were not too many other passengers on the boat, perhaps around 30, and given the size of the boat it never felt cramped or crowded. There was a lot to do on the boat, with a swimming pool, karaoke, spas, morning thai chi, a small gym, and a place to do some fishing. There were a couple of restaurants and a large bar and the food was generally very good. .

The boat took two days doing a bit of a circumnavigation around the bay and stopping off at regular intervals to allow passengers to jump into the water and swim around for a bit,or take a canoe and paddle around the bay. These were fun opportunities although the blazing sun meant you couldn't go out for more than 20-30 minutes at a time. 

There were longer stops to visit caves and I also saw the fish farms that were breeding the fish to be sold at market. The activities were fun, and it was nice to get chances to go ashore, or take guided or solo boat rides. But the best part for me was the ability to just relax. The wifi signal was poor, which was a huge blessing because it allowed me to just switch off a little bit. It's very rare to do that.

The most disappointing part is it felt a little too sterile at times. There was a timetable and that was going be met at every point with little room for surprises or things beyond the calendar. I guess it's to be expected. When you go on overnight trips in Halong Bay you are a tourist and you follow a tour schedule. You can't just decide to do something off-the-cuff. And it's necessary for many reasons, but after the freedom of Hanoi, it did have a tinge of restrictiveness to it.

I understand some of the commentary on overtourism, and I don't miss the irony in being part of the cause by taking this trip. For much of the trip, despite the size of the bay, there was always a ship nearby or in the distance - I never felt completely isolated. And despite the government taking stronger action against pollution, parts of the bay were definitely dirty and there were plastics floating about in certain areas where boats would stop for the night. I can imagine that without tighter enforcement and potentially limits on numbers, the pristine bay may not remain so pristine for long.

Would I recommend visiting Ha Long Bay?

I'm glad I finally went after almost a decade since my first trip to Vietnam. In many ways it surpassed my expectations, but I do worry about the future viability of these types of excursions without there being considerable damage to the environment. In other ways, it felt a bit rushed. 

I'd also note that it's a bit of a distance from Hanoi, although I found the 3 hour minibus ride to pass relatively quickly. The cost is perhaps a bigger issue. I definitely couldn't afford the trip when I first came to Hanoi, but after many years of working and saving, I had enough money to be able to do this. Different lengths of journey, boats, and experiences, cost different amounts but my trip cost near enough £300 which isn't cheap.

As a Sikh, there were no issues whatsoever. Passengers were from around the world and they were all nice. I spoke to some Aussies, Italians, Chinese, and Vietnamese tourists and they were all very cool although very more my age. They were either families with kids, or retirees spending some of that sweet sweet pension money that they get.