Freiburg im Breisgau

Summary

Airport Rating n/a
Reception of locals ****
Cost: ££££

• A university town on the German border with France and Switzerland
• Most of the city centre was damaged by the British during the Second World War, but a fair bit of the historic core survived and was rebuilt along the same lines as the medieval city
• As a Sikh, there were no issues other than a few stares
• Main Sights: Freiburg Minster, Munsterplatz, Scholssberg, Schwabentor, Bachle

France to Germany

After leaving Strasbourg (which you can read about here), I took the train south-east into Germany. First, a short train took me over the border into Kehl on the Germany side of the River Rhine. Here, police board the train and do random checks on travellers (nothing on me this time, which was different to my last cross-border train ride to Trier that you can read about here). After that it was a train to Offenburg, a short switch, and then onward into Freiburg. The whole journey was just under two hours but that included the standard train delays that Germany has become famous for. Decades of underinvestment have made the German train network one of the most unreliable in Europe.

A university city

​Freiburg im Breisgau (there are several other Freiburgs in Germany) is a city in south-western Germany, located in the federal state of Baden-Württemberg close to the borders with France and Switzerland. It lies at the western edge of the Black Forest and at the eastern end of the Upper Rhine Plain, a position that has shaped its history, economy, and character for centuries. With a population of roughly 230,000 people, Freiburg is a medium-sized German city about the size of Wolverhampton and parts of it looks like Wolverhampton too.

The city was founded in 1120 by the Dukes of Zahringen, a powerful noble family that established several planned towns in the region. Freiburg was granted market rights early on, which helped it develop as a commercial centre. The discovery of silver in the nearby Black Forest contributed significantly to its medieval prosperity, and the city’s name is commonly linked to the concept of a “free town”, reflecting privileges granted to its citizens. During the Middle Ages, Freiburg changed hands several times, coming under Habsburg control in the late 14th century and remaining part of Austria for long periods. This Habsburg connection left a lasting imprint on the city’s architecture and institutions.

Freiburg is a significant university city, with the University of Freiburg founded in 1457 and ranking among Germany’s oldest universities and the city's universities continue to play a huge role in the city. Several research institutes, including branches of major German scientific organisations, are located in or near the city. The city is also well known for its focus on sustainability and environmental technologies. Since the late 20th century, the city has positioned itself as a centre for solar energy and green innovation. It's an area where the Green Party has always found a significant power base.

Bachle

Arriving into the city, the train station is probably best described as functional. Each platform connects to a bridge which functions as a main road into the city. To me it was a bit of an optical illusion, I expected to be high above to city, only to see the bridge at city level and the train station appear below street level.

The first thing I noticed about the city is that it's a little worn down. In continental Europe, unlike the UK, areas around train stations are never that nice, and while it wasn't unsafe or dangerous, it did look a little tired. But as I crossed into the historic core I saw the Bachle, one of the defining features of the city.

The Bachle are small, open water channels that run along the edges of streets and squares in the old town. They are shallow, narrow, and usually lined with stone, carrying a constant flow of water that has become closely associated with the city’s visual identity. It's hard to describe, put them in a tropic region, and these may be mosquito infested areas, but in the cool German climate, they add some character to a city that at first glance looked like Wolverhampton to me.

The earliest documented references to the Bachle date to the 13th century, though it's likely that similar water channels existed earlier. Freiburg developed in a region where water management was essential, both for daily life and for protection against fire. The Bachle were fed by diverted streams from the Dreisam river and nearby watercourses, channelled carefully through the city using gravity rather than mechanical pumping. 

One of the main functions of the Bachle was fire prevention and firefighting. In a medieval town dominated by wooden buildings, workshops, and open hearths, fire represented a constant and existential risk. The presence of water channels along most streets meant that water was immediately available wherever a fire might break out. Buckets could be filled quickly, and in some cases water could be redirected or dammed locally to increase supply. Bachle also provided water for horses, cattle and other domestic animals and they were. also used for washing and street cleaning. 

They typically run parallel to the pavement rather than down the centre of the street, minimising interference with people. The channels are shallow enough to avoid serious injury but deep enough to maintain a steady flow. I wondered how many people might have accidentally stepped into the water each day and how many twisted and sprained ankles happen in the city on a regular basis and how much higher it might be than surrounding areas. Stone slabs and small bridges allow crossings at doorways and intersections, integrating the channels into the street layout rather than treating them as obstacles.

As Freiburg modernised in the 19th and early 20th centuries, many European cities removed or covered similar water systems in favour of underground pipes. Freiburg debated this option but ultimately chose to preserve much of the Bachle network because of cost, practicality, and emerging ideas about heritage and urban character.

Following the destruction caused by bombing during the Second World War, Freiburg restored the historic street pattern which also meant restoring the Bachle in many areas. Today, the Bachle are maintained primarily for heritage, urban design, and environmental reasons. They contribute to microclimatic cooling during warmer months as the flowing water can reduce surface heat and add humidity in dense urban areas, although the impact is fairly small. To me, the Bachle add a little character and personality to the city. I like them, but I'd be constantly worried stepping into them by accident if I was in this city for much longer.

Freiburg Minster

As I walked further into the old town, the one thing that stood out was Freiburg Minster which has ​shaped both the physical layout and civic life of the city for more than eight centuries. 

Construction of the Minster began around 1200 on the site of an earlier parish church. The project spanned several centuries, resulting in a structure that combines Romanesque foundations with later Gothic elements. One of the most distinctive features of the cathedral is its western tower, completed in the 14th century. At approximately 116 metres high, the tower is notable for its openwork spire, an architectural innovation of the period which I have seen across several churches and cathedrals in France and Germany. 

Outside, the Minster is built with red sandstone sourced from the surrounding region, with biblical figures, saints, and stories carved into the stone. Inside, the Minster has stained glass windows from the 13th to the 16th centuries and beautiful organs and pipes. When I visited there was a service going on and the organs were playing beautiful sounds. The Minster was packed but I was able to spend a bit of time walking around.

While much of Freiburg was damaged or destroyed during bombing in the Second World War, the Minster suffered relatively limited structural harm. This was partly due to chance, partly to its robust construction, and partly to emergency measures taken to protect it. Its survival reinforced its symbolic status in the post-war period as a marker of continuity amid widespread destruction.

Around the Minster is Munsterplatz, a large open square that functions as one of Freiburg’s main public spaces. Unlike many medieval church squares that were later enclosed or reduced in size, Munsterplatz has retained its openness, which makes it feel super large. The square is framed by historic buildings, including former merchants’ houses and administrative structures, many of which were reconstructed after the war in forms that reflect their pre-war appearance.

Historically, Munsterplatz served as a marketplace, and regular markets are held there on weekdays, selling food, flowers, and regional produce, there was even a market on during my visit. In some respects, like the historic buildings surrounding the square, it reminded me of Romerberg is Frankfurt (which you can read about here).

Schwabentor

The old town has pockets of incredible beauty, especially as the evening settles and the area begins to light up. Trams criss cross the streets of the old town and you can often hear them screeching long before you seen them.

As I continued my walk through the old town I came across ​the Schwabentor which is one of the most prominent surviving medieval city gates in Freiburg. Positioned between Munsterplatz and the district of Oberlinden, it historically marked the point where the city met the route leading eastwards into the Black Forest and further towards Swabia. 

The Schwabentor was built in the mid-13th century, making it one of the oldest surviving structures in the city. It was built as part of Freiburg’s medieval fortifications, which included walls, towers, and gates designed to control access and provide defence. 

The gate is a tall, narrow structure, originally designed to be defensible rather than decorative. It's a stone tower with a passageway at ground level, allowing controlled entry into the city. Over time, the gate was modified and heightened, particularly in the late medieval period, as defensive needs evolved. As military technology changed and city walls lost their defensive relevance,

Freiburg gradually dismantled much of its fortifications. The Schwabentor survived largely because it could be adapted to new uses and because it remained integrated into the urban fabric. In the 19th century, when many European cities removed medieval gates to ease traffic flow, Freiburg decided to keep some of theirs, which was during emerging conversations around Europe about heritage and conservation.

During the Second World War, the Schwabentor was bombed though it was not completely destroyed. Post-war restoration aimed to preserve its historical appearance while ensuring structural stability. Today, it houses a small museum and, somewhat nicely, still functions as a passageway into the old town.

I stood outside the gate one evenings just stopping and staring around and I'll admit in that moment, this city, and the historic core, struck me as truly beautiful. It's a relatively small old town, but the lights in the evening make it look very impressive.

Schlossberg

If you go past the gate and head out of the historic city centre you come across a hill called​Schlossberg that rises immediately to the east of the historic centre. The Schlossberg is around 456 metres above sea level, which is about 250 metres higher than the old town, which made it a great place to build a castle and fortifications.

The original castle served as both a military stronghold and a symbol of authority over the surrounding region. Its location allowed control of trade routes running north–south along the Rhine valley and eastwards into the Black Forest. During the early modern period, particularly in the 17th century, the Schlossberg became one of the most heavily fortified sites in the region. Under Habsburg rule, and later during periods of French control, extensive bastions, ramparts, and underground structures were added. 

Following changes in political control and military priorities, the fortifications were deliberately dismantled in the early 18th century. In 1745, much of the fortress was destroyed by order of the French crown after Freiburg was returned to Habsburg control. The demolition was intended to prevent the site from being reused as a military stronghold by rival powers. As a result, what remains today are fragments rather than intact structures, including sections of walls, vaulted passages, and foundations.

The walk up to the top of Schlossberg isn't too long or taxing, but you can also take a small funicular railway if you like (a little bit like the one in Bridgenorth that you can read about here). The views from the top are pretty cool, you can see most of the city, and even some mountains in the distance. The skyline is dominated by Freiburg Minster, but you can see some of the medieval gates, and the beautiful red rooftops of the city's buildings. There more than one route up, and more than one route down, and along the route there are places where you can eat and drink too.

Christmas Markets @ Freiburg

Much like Strasbourg, I came to check out some of the Christmas markets. These markets are Germanic in origin and best seen in Germany. ​The main Christmas market areas include Munsterplatz, Rathausplatz, and Kartoffelmarkt. The market at Munsterplatz is the biggest and busiest, but much like Strasbourg, there are markets dotted around several places.

The markets are much smaller than those in Strasbourg, but also feel less commercial. The food is better here, but the overall feel is definitely better in Strasbourg which markets itself as a Christmas market destination. Freiburg's markets are a little less busier, a little more cheaper, and if crowds annoy you, then you might find the experience in Freiburg a little easier. The markets did make a city, which does feel a little worn down, sparkle a little bit. It added a warm hue on the cold winter nights that I visited, which in turn made the shops in the area also feel a little more festive. 

Would I recommend visiting Freiburg?

I'm not so sure I would recommend a trip to Freiburg, especially with so many options in the surrounding area. Freiburg Minster is genuinely beautiful, and the views from Scholssberg are pretty cool, but I'm not sure I'd made the trek out here just to see the city. And that's not a knock on Freiburg, it's just a reflection that within an hour you are in beautiful parts of Germany, Switzerland, and France so the competition is strong.

That said, if you find yourself going through Freiburg into any of those other places, an afternoon stop off in Freiburg to stretch your legs and to see the old town isn't a bad idea. As a Sikh, I had a few stares but nothing more than that and it generally felt like a relatively safe and easy place to visit and get in and out of, although to my knowledge there are not any Gurdwareh too close to the city. Thumbs in the middle kind of city.