Dominica

Summary

Airport Rating ***
Reception of locals *****
Cost: £££

• Geographically, economically, and demographically one of the smaller islands in the Caribbean 
• Incredible natural landscape with blue waterfalls, brown volcanic spas, and green forests
• No issues as a Sikh in the airport or around the island
• Main Sights: Trafalgar Falls, Emerald Pool, Boiling Lake, Sulpher Spas, Beaches

The Commonwealth of Dominica

Growing up in the UK, an island in the Caribbean was a synonym of paradise. Caribbean islands were a part of everyday language to illustrate an end goal of success. Considering this background, it's crazy to think that even though I am on the doorstep of the Caribbean these days, I've only visited one country in region previously (and you can read about my visit to Trinidad and Tobago here).

Recently, I had the opportunity to explore Dominica, an island that is relatively small and less well known. When I was telling people that I was going to Dominica, they automatically assumed that I meant the Dominican Republic - but the two islands couldn't be more different.

For starters Dominica is largely an English speaking island and it is smaller, and less well developed. It markets itself as the natural untouched island in the Caribbean and you don't need more proof of that than the flight into the island.

​It's comfortably one of the most beautiful (but also one of the scariest) approaches that I have ever done - stick it up there with Belize, La Paz, and Cusco. The plane approaches the island before making a series of turns, mountains on all sides of the plane. At one point I was convinced that a wingtip was going to touch the treetops that were so close to the plane you could make out individual leaves and branches. It's one of the most breathtaking landings of my life.

 A little green gem

Let's start with the geography, Dominica is a small island nation in the eastern Caribbean. It lies between the French territories of Guadeloupe to the north and Martinique to the south, forming part of the Lesser Antilles. The island is around 29 miles long and 16 miles wide, making it one of the smaller Caribbean states in terms of size. It has a population of less than 80,000 people which means it's also one of the smaller Caribbean states in terms of population. The size is one of the reasons that it is often overlooked or less well known.

The island was originally inhabited by the Kalinago, also known as the Caribs, who resisted European colonisation longer than most other Caribbean peoples (more on the Kalinago later). Christopher Columbus sighted the island on a Sunday in November 1493 during his second voyage, which is why it was named Dominica, meaning “Sunday” in Latin.

Unlike many other Caribbean islands, Dominica was not immediately colonised by the Spanish, partly because of its rugged terrain and the resistance of the indigenous people. The French began settling in the 17th century, but Britain and France contested control of the island throughout the 18th century.

After several battles and treaties, Britain formally took control in 1805. Slavery was abolished in Dominica in 1834, and the island later became one of the first British colonies in the Caribbean to have a Black majority legislature. Dominica gained independence from the United Kingdom in 1978 and has remained a parliamentary democracy within the Commonwealth.

The capital city, Roseau, located on the west coast, is the main political and economic centre. Portsmouth, the second largest town, lies further north. The population is largely of African descent, reflecting the legacy of slavery during the colonial period, though there is also a small but significant community of Kalinago people who retain a degree of cultural autonomy in a designated territory on the east coast. These are the original inhabitants and look more South Asian in terms of features. 

The economy of Dominica is relatively modest compared to some of its Caribbean neighbours. For much of the 20th century, agriculture was the backbone of the economy, with bananas serving as the main export. However, the banana industry has declined over recent decades due to reduced preferential trade agreements with Europe, vulnerability to hurricanes, and increased competition.

Today, agriculture still plays an important role, particularly crops like citrus fruits, root vegetables, and coffee, but it is no longer dominant. Tourism has become an increasingly important sector, though Dominica attracts fewer visitors than islands such as Barbados or Saint Lucia, largely because it has fewer sandy beaches and less direct international air connectivity. Instead, the country markets itself to ecotourists, hikers, and divers who are drawn to its volcanic landscapes, national parks, and dive sites. 

Roseau, the capital

​Roseau, the capital of Dominica, is at the opposite side of the island (even though there is a closer airport to the city, the runway is much shorter and it is usually used for charter flights). The island isn't big, but the roads are underdeveloped, and it is a very mountainous place. This means the journey from the airport to Roseau takes about an hour and it is one of the most meandering, rollercoaster style roads I've ever been on. If you've been to Sri Hemkunt Sahib you'll know what I mean.

Both on the way to Roseau and the way back to the airport a week later, I felt travel sickness in ways that I rarely do elsewhere, and it wasn't just me - others doing the same journey described it in similar fashion and when I spoke with locals they all asked me about the journey and laughed at my response. It seems as though everybody knows it's not a fun journey.

Roseau is a pretty small city that is the political, economic, and cultural hub of the island. Located on the southwestern coast, the city is framed by the Caribbean Sea to the west and steep green hills rising to the east, giving it a dramatic backdrop that is typical of Dominica’s rugged volcanic terrain. The city itself is relatively small compared to other Caribbean capitals, with an urban population of around 15,000 to 20,000 people, though it functions as the central point for much of the island’s commercial and administrative life. Its modest size means that it has more of the feel of a large town rather than a bustling metropolis.

The French were the first Europeans to establish a permanent settlement there in the 18th century and the town developed with a distinctly French character, seen in its early wooden houses and narrow streets. After Britain gained control of Dominica in 1763, Roseau became the island’s colonial capital, and over time, more British-style stone and brick buildings were added to the urban landscape. Today, the city’s architecture reflects this layered colonial past: Georgian-style stone houses with wooden verandas sit alongside colourful Caribbean cottages, churches, and more modern concrete structures.

When you walk around, that eclectic mix comes out, but for the most part, the city looks fairly run down. That's not to say that the architecture isn't nice or interesting, it is, but much of the buildings look in need of a paint job. But the structures themselves can be beautiful. I especially like the area around the port with townhouses that have balconies on the upper floors, as well as the inside of certain bars made of stone during British rule.

The Botanic Gardens are just a short walk from the city centre and it's like a big open park in the middle of the city filled with local flora and fauna. Nearby is the Roseau Market which is busiest on Fridays and Saturdays and sells local goods, food, but also souvenirs and handicrafts.

I walked around the city during the day and late at night in many different directions, and while it doesn't feel completely safe, the people that I interacted with were very pleasant and I had no issues whatsoever.

During the day I was approached by a few people asking for money, but nothing crazy. Some nights the city felt like a ghost town, while on a Friday night the strip by the port was completely packed. On this night roads were blocked as locals were racing down the strip on cars and motorbikes, doing stunts, while crowds lined the street with drinks and loud music. I hung around for a while and had fun, and while I got a few stares, the vibes were very positive. On other nights, my walks to restaurants were on very quiet roads, especially after the sun went down. I also took a longer road to the nearby town of Citronier and while it wasn't a particularly beautiful walk, I did go past a couple of bakeries that had the most incredible fragrance.

Food prices were slightly higher than I expected but this reflects the fact the island imports a lot of its main staples. The restaurants I visited ranged from small stone houses to large modern food courts, and while the service was consistently slow, it was always friendly and I enjoyed the food.

A floating library

During my weeklong visit to Dominica, there was a ship docked at port the whole time. I ignored it for the first few days, but eventually curiosity got the best of me and I decided to ask someone local. I was told the ship was a floating library that sails around the Caribbean docking at ports at various islands and staying there for a week or two allowing locals to come in and purchase books.

Well, that massively stoked my curiosity so I did a little bit of background reading and headed out to the port to check it out. 

The ​Logos Hope is a ship that is the world’s largest floating book fair. It's operated by a German-based Christian charity, and it travels from country to country, offering people access to affordable books while also running community projects, humanitarian aid, and cultural exchange initiatives. 

The ship was purchased by the charity in 2004 and it underwent a significant refit, transforming from a ferry into a floating library. Entire decks were rebuilt to include a vast book fair area, auditoriums, and meeting rooms. Cabins were redesigned to house an international crew of volunteers, and new systems were installed to ensure the ship could operate efficiently as it travelled long distances. After several years of renovation and preparation, Logos Hope was officially launched on mission in 2009.

The ship is staffed mostly by volunteers, with around 400 crew members from up to 60 different nationalities on board at any given time. These volunteers commit months or years of their lives to serving on the vessel, handling everything from navigation and engineering to book sales and community outreach. 

When Logos Hope docks at a port, the process is carefully coordinated. The ship usually stays for one to two weeks, during which it opens its book fair to the public. Volunteers often go ashore to work with local charities, schools, hospitals, and community groups. This can range from offering practical support, such as renovation projects or aid distribution, to running educational workshops and cultural exchanges.

You have to get a ticket to enter but the price is the equivalent of less than a pound. There was a quick security check after the ticket check which just looked inside bags, no airport style security or anything. The ship looked magnificent and the walkway into the vessel was beautiful. Inside, at the entrance there is a video, very Christian heavy (is it should be) which gives some details on the history of the ship, how it works, and what you can expect inside.

The fair itself is vast by maritime standards, with thousands of titles covering education, self-development, health, technology, fiction, children’s literature, and spiritual themes. Prices are often kept deliberately affordable, particularly in lower-income countries, so that books are accessible to as wide a population as possible. Of course, each book there shouldn't run counter to the Christian theme, and a significant amount of books were more overtly religious. This is all good, I think it's nice that the charity work has a religious element. Where it went too far (and where I didn't agree) was where some of the books were against other religions, some of them quite overt. Abrahamic religions love to split the world into believers and non-believers; Jews and Gentiles, Christians and Pagans, and Muslims and Infidels, and some of the book definitely crossed into territory that I think is a dangerous way of thinking.

I didn't get anything, it's mostly geared toward kids and young adults. Volunteers also seemed quite young, pre-university age mostly I would guess. At the end of the bookstore area is a decent sized canteen and then you walk out onto the exit.

I think it's a great idea, and it definitely inspired me. I think it has the potentially to help a lot of children improve their reading, while also picking up good ethical and moral values.

Trafalgar Falls

The most famous natural attraction in Dominica is the boiling lake, however, the trip is nearly a full day round trip hike, and given there was a fair bit of rain before and during my trip the ground was quite muddy. It's a shame, if it were dryer I would have liked to do it. Alternatively, there is a new cable car system opening at the end of the year, a multi-million dollar project that will get people to the boiling lake in less than 20 minutes. But I was too early for that too!

I didn't miss out completely on the natural wonders of Dominica, because Trafalgar falls were pretty special. They're also a lot more accessible, as it is just a twenty-minute drive from Roseau, in the Morne Trois Pitons National Park. Their location inside the UNESCO-listed park highlights their importance, as they embody both the volcanic origins of the island and its dense tropical rainforest environment.

Trafalgar falls aren't the biggest or tallest waterfalls I've ever seen but what makes Trafalgar Fall distinctive is that it is not a single waterfall but a pair. Locals call them “Mama” and “Papa” Falls. Papa Falls is the larger, plunging about 40 metres down a cliff face. Mama Falls is smaller, at around 20 metres, and has a gentler, more graceful flow. The two stand side by side, surrounded by thick green vegetation and framed by huge volcanic boulders scattered across the valley floor. The constant mist in the air and the thunderous sound of water rushing down create an atmosphere that feels both dramatic and calming.

Visiting Trafalgar Falls is straightforward and one of the easiest ways to experience Dominica’s natural splendour. Entry to the falls requires a ticket, usually purchased at the visitor centre near the entrance. For non-residents, the cost is around £3, though prices may vary slightly. This fee goes toward the upkeep of Morne Trois Pitons National Park and supports conservation work. From the entrance, it’s only about a ten-minute walk along a well-maintained trail through the rainforest to the viewing platform, where both Mama and Papa can be seen together. The path is paved and relatively easy, and there are some souvenir shops outside.

Sulphur Spas

To understand the sulphur spas, you need to ​first understand the island a little bit. Dominica exists due to volcanic activity. The island sits on the Lesser Antilles volcanic arc, where the movement of tectonic plates forces magma close to the surface. Rainwater seeps into the ground, where it is naturally heated by this geothermal energy before re-emerging as hot springs. Along the way, the water absorbs minerals from the surrounding rocks, including sulfur, iron, and calcium, giving it its distinctive smell and its cloudy, mineral-rich appearance.

This makes it a hotspot for hot spas and sulphur spas. There are a few on the island and I visited Ti Kwen Glo Cho which is situated in the Roseau valley close to the capital and not far from Trafalgar Falls. The first thing I noticed is that are many hot spas in the area, it's called the hot spa capital of the Caribbean. Driving through the area you can see steam venting up from random locations, it's pretty surreal.

Ti Kwen Glo Cho itself is quite small, rustic but carefully arranged to preserve a sense of natural charm. The site features stone pools filled with hot sulfur water, shaded by tropical vegetation, as well as quirky bathing tubs fashioned from old rum barrels. There are also smaller cold water spas nearby. You can move between the different pools, and there is also an outside shower. Weirdly, nearby is a miniature "zoo" (that's what the sign says) but in reality its a small space that contains rabbits, guinea pigs, and tortoises.

There's only one small changing room, but when I arrived the pool was completely empty. The hot water takes a moment to get used to, and after a few minutes I found myself sweating a decent amount. It's a weird sensation but I understand why people find it so relaxing. Visiting Ti Kwen Glo Cho is also affordable, which adds to its popularity. The entrance fee is typically around £8 per person though prices may sometimes be slightly lower depending on the season. This includes access to all the pools and the gardens, with no time limit on how long you can stay

Wotten Waven, a nearby village, is especially famous for its geothermal baths. Options there range from small family-run spas to more developed facilities such as Screw’s Sulphur Spa, which offers multiple pools of varying temperatures and a livelier, social atmosphere (I wanted to go there, but unfortunately it was closed during my visit). Others, like Bongo Baths, provide a quieter and more rustic experience. Entrance fees in these spas usually fall in the same range, around US $5–15 (so you're never paying more than about £12), depending on the size of the facility and what is included. 

The sulfur spas have also become important for Dominica’s eco-tourism strategy. The island markets itself not through beaches and large resorts, but through nature and wellness. These spas fit perfectly into this approach. 

The Emerald Pool

Perhaps my favourite part of the island was a visit to the famous Emeral Pool. The pool is also within the Morne Trois Pitons National Park. There is a decent sized car park and entrance is about £3.

The trail to the pool is well-maintained and an easy walk (it can just get a little slippy in places if it has rained). The walk is a loop of about 15–20 minutes through the rainforest, and along the way you can small birds and animals in the lush green forest.

The pool is an incredible sight. It is set in a small natural amphitheatre, surrounded by dense greenery that adds to the sense of seclusion. The waterfall drops into a circular basin of cool, clear water, shallow at the edges and deeper in the centre. The “emerald” colouring comes from a combination of the mineral content of the water, the shaded forest canopy, and the reflection of surrounding vegetation. 

I visited during the early evening, and it was very quiet, just a couple of other people were in and around the pool. I jumped into the pool, swam under the waterfall and climbed around the rocks. The pool is mostly relatively shallow, but it does get deeper closer to the waterfall. For me, it was an absolutely magical experience, and probably my favourite place on the island and so I spent a fair bit of time there, only leaving as the sun set and the pool started losing light (although I did manage to smash my knee off a rock which cause a small cut).

The Kalinago

On the opposite side of the island from Roseau, and just south of the airport, is the Kalinago Territory. It stretches across about 3,700 acres on the island’s rugged north-eastern coast, set against steep hillsides, winding rivers, and the Atlantic Ocean. 

​Earlier, I introduced the Kalinago, and they are the indigenous people of the Carribean, and particularly the Lesser Antilles. They had established communities and trade across several islands but their numbers were decimated by disease and modern firearms bought by European colonialists. Today, Dominica is the only island where the Kalinago have a sizeable population.

The territory is a place to live but parts of it also serves as a living museum where the Kalinago can tell their stories, introduce visitors to their way of living, and earn some money. A Kalinago guide was available and did a walk through a part of the territory speaking about its history and present state. 

The Carib Territory (as it was initially known) was formally established in 1903, when the British colonial administration set aside this area as communal land for the Kalinago. This recognised their rights to land after centuries of displacement. The territory is not divided into individual freeholds like the rest of Dominica but instead held communally. This means that while families can farm and build within the territory, the land itself cannot be sold or taken away. It is governed by a Chief and a Council, elected by the community, which adds another layer of distinctiveness to life in the territory.

Inside the territory you can see the construction of thatched Ajoupas (traditional huts), canoe-building demonstrations, basket weaving, and stories about how the territory operates in practice. The walk around the part of the territory open for visitors wasn't too long, less than an hour, and there are some beautiful parts, with some beautiful views over the Atlantic Ocean.

It's sad to hear how the indigenous population of these islands, which once lived across several islands, it now largely centered around one territory within Dominica, but it was also very good to hear the resilience, the cultural revival, and the fact that Dominica has taken such strong steps to ensure this culture does not simply disappear like so many others.

The Kalinago Territory didn't just show me a physically different side to the island (the Atlantic Coast) but also a different type of experience. Something deep, meaningful, important, and functional. It also gave me a stronger appreciation of the people that live here (and not just the Kalinago).

On the way back to Roseau, on the same long and winding roads that made me feel travel sick the week before, there were a few stops along the way in small little bar-like establishments. These are dotted around the island and at night are so beautiful because you'll have a hut, lights on, and then around it nothing but miles of darkness as far as the eye can see with the forests and jungles hidden by the night. It's a nice reminder that Dominica is not just another Caribbean island, but something special in its own right.

Would I recommend visiting Dominica?

I liked it, but if you've read my blogs before, you'll know I'm not much of a beach person and Dominica is not famous for its beaches. The natural part of Dominica is incredible, there are large parts of the island that just feel untouched, and there is a lush greenery every you go other than the cities and towns. 

Roseau is... fine. It's a city, a very small one, and a decent base. I didn't go diving or swimming in the Caribbean and that is something Dominica is known for, and I hope to return someday to visit the Boiling Lake.

As a Sikh there were no issues whatsoever on the island or in the airport - no issues with salais at airport security either. In terms of cost, it's cheaper than some of the larger or more famous Caribbean islands, but it's not exactly Lao or Cambodia either given the costs of importing so much. The food is good and for those readers that are vegetarian you won't have any issues. Fruit is fresh, and you'll see some familiar food items like roti on menus.