SummaryAirport Rating ***** Reception of locals ***** Cost: ££ (a little more on the islands)
Beautiful BelizeBelize has always held a bit of curious fascination for me, being the only English-speaking country in Central America. When I was younger, I remember seeing a short report about it on TV and I was hooked. This year, I finally got the chance to visit. I spent a week in the country, although my trip coincided with a tropical storm that many thought might become a category 1 hurricane. I've been quite lucky on my trips with weather, I can count only a couple of occasions where weather has ruined a weeklong trip - but unfortunately the trip to Belize was one of those occasions. That being said, I still had time to go out and explore the city as well as neighbouring islands as the storm and the associated bad weather passed. The good thing about going for a week is that you're still likely to have a few good days of weather. Belize was, until very recently, a British colony. and is a small but diverse country in Central America, bordered by Mexico to the north, Guatemala to the west and south, and the Caribbean Sea to the east. With a population of around 400,000, Belize is one of the least densely populated countries in the Americas. Its territory encompasses a variety of ecosystems, including rainforests, mountains, savannahs, and a coastline with coral reefs and hundreds of islands, or cayes. Belize’s economy, while heavily reliant on tourism (you get a lot of Americans), also depends on exports of agricultural products such as sugar, citrus, and bananas, as well as seafood like lobster and shrimp. Despite speaking English, the country is linguistically and culturally diverse, with Spanish, Kriol, and several indigenous languages spoken widely. I spent a lot of time conversing with Belizean friends and while I completely understood the English spoken in a Belizean accent, whenever they shifted to Kriol it became almost impossible to understand. The capital of Belize is Belmopan, a city built inland by the British in 1970s following a hurricane in Belize City that destroyed much of the city in 1961. Belmopan is one of the newest and smallest capital cities in the Americas and is only the third largest city in the country. Belize City remains the largest city and the commercial hub of Belize. Belize City is located on a small peninsula along the eastern coastline where the Belize River meets the Caribbean Sea. With an estimated population of around 57,000 people, Belize City is home to about 15% of the country's total population. The city's origins can be traced back to the 17th century when it was established by British settlers as a base for logging operations, particularly mahogany, which was in high demand for furniture and construction. Enslaved Africans were brought to the area to work in the timber camps, and their labour laid the foundations for much of the city's early development. Over time, Belize City evolved into the administrative and economic centre of what was then British Honduras. I saw a lot of different types of people during my stay in Belize City. The city’s demographic makeup includes Creole, Mestizo, Garifuna, Maya, and expatriate communities, alongside smaller populations of Chinese and Lebanese. From South Asia I saw people from India, but not many from Bangladesh, Pakistan, Sri Lanka, or Panjab. This diversity is a direct result of the city’s historical role as a colonial hub and its position as a point of entry for migrants over the centuries. The problem with Belize - and this is true of many countries including my own - is that wealth disparity is high and increasing, although it is visually much worse here due to a lack of a social safety net. The difference between gated affluent neighbourhoods and the rest of the city is striking and brings home the large issue of poverty. Public infrastructure in the country isn't amazing which means a lot of traffic on streets that are covered in potholes, making the visual differences even more great. That being said, there is plenty I loved about Belize, and I want to share some of those positive experiences here. Flying CarsFirstly, I want to talk about my flight to Belize, which was probably the most unique flying experience that I have ever had. I flew from Panama, and while there is a direct flight from Panama City to Belize City, it only operates on certain days. I had to fly via a short stop in Cancun, Mexico. The flight into Mexico was fairly normal, but after landing I had to switch to a private fixed wing terminal which was full of private planes. The terminal was one of the strangest buildings I'd ever seen - like a big marble slab. It was obviously relatively new. Inside, the only things for sale were extremely high-end wallets, whiskeys, and cigars. It was unbelievably weird. Like the fantasy of a boomer man come to life. There were no queues inside the terminal and a very small security process that took seconds to get through. The experience only got weirder when it was time to fly. Me and a small number of other passengers were led outside to the tiniest plane you can imagine (a small Cessna). It looked more like a flying car than a plane with a total capacity of about 12 people - and not all the seats were taken. I sat behind the pilots - not behind a door on a front row - but literally behind the pilots. It meant that I had the same view outside that the pilots had, from takeoff to landing, including watching the plane align with the runway from miles away. The plane was also tiny which meant it flew at a slightly lower altitude and even the slightest change outside meant turbulence inside. In fact, every time we flew through a cloud the whole plane would shake. There was no room to stand up, barely any room to crouch, and the total number of airline crew were the two pilots. The flight was one of the best experiences of my life as I could hear everything the pilots were saying, watch them flick every switch, see what they were seeing on their dashboards. On my flight it was obvious that the copilot was a student as he was much younger and the older pilot was walking him through different steps and when at cruising altitude talking about various actions that can be taken in different scenarios. Below, we flew over the gorgeous Mexican coastline into Belize, with bright blue and turquoise water next to golden yellow sand and the green of the Yucatan jungles. As we got into Belize we could see the Belize Barrier Reef and a variety of different islands. The flight took about an hour and a half in total but because everything was so interesting it felt a lot quicker than that. Given the small size of the plane, passengers were all talking to one another, and a Belizean woman who had done this flight many times was sitting behind me and pointing out to me famous landmarks below - it was such as friendly experience. Landing was fairly easy, the terminal in Belize City was small and there were no issues getting through immigration, and no other airlines that had landed the same time as us. I was in and out within minutes, and the drive into the city was only about 20 minutes. Belize CityBelize City was a strange experience. Despite being the largest city in the country, it's still very small. That being said, I still enjoyed it, and while I wish the weather had allowed me to explore more, I took a few longs walks around the city and visited a few famous landmarks. My favourite trip was a visit to the Museum of Belize located near the city centre, on the grounds of the Central Bank - itself a beautiful structure built in the shape of ancient Mayan temples, of which there are a few dotted around the country. The Museum of Belize was established in 2002 and is housed in a former colonial-era prison building. The museum is not only a repository of important artifacts but also a historical landmark in itself, with a legacy that connects the nation's past to its present. The building was constructed in 1857, it originally served as a colonial prison, a place where prisoners were held under harsh conditions, often for relatively minor crimes. Over the years, it went through various phases, and in the early 20th century, it also became a central part of the Belizean justice system. The prison was finally closed in 1993, and after several years of renovations and planning, the building was transformed into a museum. Today, the Museum of Belize offers a comprehensive look at the history and culture of the country, with exhibits covering a wide range of topics. The museum's permanent collections include artefacts that date back thousands of years to the time of the ancient Maya civilization, which once dominated the region. There are a variety of Maya-related exhibits, showcasing intricately carved stone monuments, pottery, tools, and jewellery. There are also exhibits dedicated to the Maya writing system, with displays of glyphs and detailed explanations of the ways in which the Maya recorded their history and beliefs. During my visit there was also a temporary exhibit on newly unearthed Mayan artefacts that were absolutely beautiful. In addition to the Maya exhibits, the Museum of Belize also covers Belize's colonial history, which began when the British first arrived in the region in the 17th century. The colonial-era displays in the museum focus on the period when Belize was a British colony known as British Honduras. This section explores the development of the logging industry, which was central to the colony’s economy, as well as the social and political structures that shaped life during the colonial period. Artefacts from this era, including tools, clothing, and documents, offer insight into the challenges faced by the early settlers and the indigenous populations. It had exhibits on the slave trade, the dangerous Atlantic crossing, and the prison system in Belize. Additionally, there were exhibitions on insects and birds that you can find in the country, all stuffed and put up for display. It's a great educational tool but also looks super creepy if you're not used to taxidermy. I really enjoyed it. I thought the whole thing was very well put together and I had a very knowledgeable guide who walked me through the different exhibits. It's not a huge museum so you can do the whole thing in less than an hour, but it is definitely worth a visit. The LighthouseDuring the peak of the storm, the sound of the wind and rain were unlike anything I had experienced before. The rain was almost horizontal due to the strong winds and it sounded more like the roar of a lion than the falling of rain. While the peak lasted a relatively short amount of time, the long arm of the weather system meant that poor weather hung around the city for several days, delaying or cancelling a few plans that I had. Despite the weather, I walked around the coastline of Belize City and I found the area around the ferry terminal to be fascinating. There are houses and embassies which - from the outside - you'd think have been abandoned for years. But they are fully functioning buildings, one of which houses the Taiwanese Embassy. Belize is one of only 12 countries worldwide that has formal diplomatic relations with Taiwan, and Taiwan invests a lot of time and effort into cultivating that relationship - during my visit I saw a lot of Taiwanese themed events, there were many Taiwanese officials in the country, and there is even a road named after Taiwan in the city. Around the area, perhaps the most striking landmark is the Baron Bliss Lighthouse, located on the northern tip of a small peninsula in Belize City. This lighthouse, built in 1885, stands as a reminder of the country's colonial past. The lighthouse is named after Baron Bliss, a British immigrant who arrived in Belize in 1926 after falling ill during a sailing trip. He had been travelling aboard his yacht, the Sea King, when he was struck by a serious illness that left him incapacitated. On his arrival in Belize, he decided to stay and recuperate. Although he spent only a few years in the country, Baron Bliss became deeply fond of Belize and its people. When he died in 1926, Baron Bliss left a lot of his fortune to Belize, specifying that the money be used for public works and to benefit the general welfare of the population. One of the key provisions in his will was the establishment of the Baron Bliss Trust Fund, which was set up to fund various projects in the country. The trust continues to benefit Belizeans to this day, contributing to educational initiatives, the construction of public infrastructure, and charitable causes. The Baron Bliss Lighthouse was constructed in his honour, and has his granite tomb placed infront of it. The lighthouse itself stands as a functional and historical monument. It was erected to guide ships safely into the port of Belize City, which, at the time, was the country’s major trading and shipping hub. Built of stone, the structure is a striking feature on the Belizean coastline. The lighthouse reaches a height of about 38 feet, and its light, which can be seen from several miles away, was once critical in ensuring the safe passage of ships navigating the waters off the coast of Belize. Today the lighthouse no longer serves the same practical purpose but remains a popular attraction. The area surrounding the lighthouse has been developed into a park, and I took a walk around it to see the views of the city and the sea. There are various points with Belize signs where people can take photos. The park is also home to a monument that commemorates Baron Bliss, a statue of him sitting on a rock and looking toward the sea. A little further a long there are a variety or shops. Catching the ferryWhen the weather cleared up, I managed to spend a couple of days exploring beyond the city and into the main tourist destinations - namely Ambergris Caye and Caye Caulker. There are two ways of visiting the islands from Belize City - by plane or by boat - and while slower, the boat is significantly cheaper. The journey took about 90 minutes and departed in the morning from the Belize City water taxi terminals. Two companies operate this route: San Pedro Belize Express and Ocean Ferry Belize - and I caught the former. Tickets can be purchased in advance online or at the terminal, and the process is straightforward. I had bought tickets online but didn't sail given weather conditions. I thought I had lost the money, but when I arrived the next day, I was asked whether I had booked a ticket the previous day - after showing proof of purchase - I was able to board at no extra cost which I thought was fantastic. The tickets cost around £12 (or 30 Belizean Dollars) to the largest island, Ambergris Caye. I liked the ferry ride moving away from the Belize City I saw the skyline, and then headed into more open waters seeing random islands along the way. I sat on the top of the boat and because the wind was keeping me cool I forgot about the heat of the morning sun which meant I ended up with a decent sunburn - tip of the day, if you catch this ferry, wear suncream. Otherwise, it was a very comfortable ride, a decent amount of seating, and nice way of getting around the cayes. Ambergris Caye I arrived directly in San Pedro, the largest city in Ambergris Caye. Ambergris Caye is the largest of Belize’s hundreds of cayes and stretches approximately 25 miles from north to south and is bordered by the turquoise waters of the Caribbean Sea. San Pedro itself is a small town, with a population of around 16,000 people, though this number swells during peak tourist seasons. The town’s streets are compact and bustling, with golf carts serving as the primary mode of transportation. The central area is a lively mix of shops, restaurants, bars, and local businesses. The carts were my favourite thing. There are no cars in the city and everyone gets on these golf cart like vehicles. I hired one for about £20 for a full day and it was easy to drive and very easy to get around the island - I was a huge fan. You just have to return it in good shape with the petrol topped up (and prices are reasonable). The town was originally inhabited by the Maya but the island later became a haven for pirates and eventually a settlement for mestizo refugees fleeing conflict in Mexico during the mid-19th century. These settlers established fishing and coconut industries, which remained the backbone of the local economy until the rise of tourism in the 20th century, which dominates the economy today. I went during the offseason, so it was relatively quiet, but I can see why the place could be packed with tourists during peak season. Every cafe and restaurant seemed to be geared toward eco-tourists in their mid 20s that want gluten-free, lacto-free everything. The quality of everything was high, but so were the prices - much higher than Belize City. Economically, San Pedro is one of the most prosperous areas in Belize, thanks to its thriving tourism industry. The town has a wide range of accommodations, from budget-friendly hostels to luxury resorts, many of which are located along the beachfront or offer stunning views of the reef. There are hundreds of restaurants and bars and the nightlife (and daylife) is very lively. Most people come here for diving or snorkelling but as a storm had just passed through, the waters remained a little choppy, even though during my visit the sun had come out. I took a golf cart around the island heading to Secret Beach, a drive of around 30-40 minutes through the island's interior. The drive took me through little villages, countryside, and many pitstops (a little like service stations where there are bars and foodcourts). It was a fantastic experience, and there are even crocodiles that you can see. The Secret Beach isn't actually so secret, it's one of the island's main draws, but during my visit it was almost completely empty so I could relax a bit and enjoy the sun and sea listening to music. On the return journey, the skies opened up and because the golf carts are mostly open, I had to pull underneath a tree to avoid getting soaked (which I was only somewhat successful doing). I spent a fair bit of time walking around San Pedro's town centre. It's very pretty, although as I went during off season many shops were closed and the streets were a little quiet. I preferred it that way and it allowed me to just relax a little more than I might have done had things been busier. It's definitely worth spending a couple of days here. Caye CaulkerCaye Caulker is a short distance from Ambergris Caye by boat and is much smaller (I walked around most of the island) and it has a slower pace of life - infact, it is known by its motto, “Go Slow,” which epitomes relaxation and embodies the charm of Belize’s smaller cayes. Caye Caulker is generally considered more budget-friendly and less developed than Ambergris Caye, which makes it especially appealing to backpackers, solo travellers, and those looking for a more tranquil atmosphere. The island is divided by a narrow waterway called The Split, which is one of its most iconic spots, offering crystal-clear waters perfect for swimming, sunbathing, and socialising. The Split also marks the division between the more developed southern end of the island and the sparsely populated northern section, where mangroves and wildlife dominate the landscape. The island has a modest population of around 2,000 permanent residents, a mix of Creole, Mestizo, Garifuna, and expatriates, contributing to a rich cultural tapestry. Tourism is the backbone of the local economy, with many residents working in hospitality, running small guesthouses, or operating tours and transport services. Despite its reliance on tourism, Caye Caulker has retained much of its traditional character, avoiding the overdevelopment that often accompanies popular destinations. In fact, on one side of the island, it was still a very rural way of living, with domesticated animals running around open yards - I liked it a lot. Much like Ambergris Caye, the island’s economy revolves heavily around eco-tourism, with visitors drawn to its proximity to the Belize Barrier Reef, the second-largest reef system in the world. The reef is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is located just a mile offshore, making it easily accessible for snorkelling, diving, and fishing. The island’s sandy streets are lined with colourful wooden houses, small eateries, and local craft shops. Golf carts and bicycles are the primary modes of transport, and the absence of cars adds to the island’s tranquil vibe. Honestly, I would happily come back here for a few days and just chill. The Split is one of the most popular spots on Caye Caulker, both for locals and tourists. Legend has it that the channel was created by Hurricane Hattie in 1961, although some say it was later widened by locals to improve boat access. Today, it serves as a natural swimming area with clear, calm waters and a lively beach bar. Each bar was filled by a different group of tourists and locals and it was great hearing people enjoying themselves and having a good time. I can imagine this is a great place to come and make friends - a little like my experiences in Thailand during my mid 20s. Would I recommend visiting Belize?I liked Belize which is a strange thing for me to say considering I'm not really a beach person. I can see a scenario where I leave my smartphone behind and spend a couple weeks detached from everything in one of the smaller cayes. That would be an incredible (and healthy) experience. Unfortunately, life, right? Prices are reasonable, especially in Belize City, but things are more expensive in the more tourist heavy cayes. The city itself isn't filled with landmarks and attractions, but experiencing the city itself is a nice thing to do. Had the weather held I would almost certainly have headed out to see some of the Mayan Temples, one of which - Altun Ha - is only a 40 minute drive north. I had booked a visit, but unfortunately the weather didn't play ball and I had to cancel - maybe next time. As a Sikh I had no issues, either in the airport, or during my time in the city or in the cayes. I don't think anyone really cares here. People are too busy living their own lives, or enjoying some time on holiday. The whole place just feels chill and laidback and I think that's its greatest strength. Comments are closed.
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AuthorBritish Sikh, born in the Midlands, based in London, travelling the world seeing new cultures. Categories
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